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362734 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 362734
16 - 30 of 376

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Pies Boiled Over And Baked On Oven Bottom
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marjorie from Yucca Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.
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burner would not lite
23 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Kenner, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over
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Oven went full blast and wouldn't shut off.
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RALPH from DALY CITY, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.
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Oven would not ignite
19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffery Jankowski from Bronx, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
1. Moved oven from the wall.
2. Unplugged the stove from the electrical outlet.
3. Removed over racks and bottom panel.
4. Located wires leading from the igniter in the back of the stove.
5. Disconnected the wires from the ignitor.
6. Used socket set to remove screws from ignitor.
7. Cut connector plug f rom new ignitor.
8. Stripped about a half inch of insulation from wires of new ignitor to be able to connect it to stove.
9. Carefully handled new ignitor and screwed it into place.
10. Attached wires of new ignitor using new caps.
11. Put bottom panel and racks into place.
12. Plugged oven into electrical outlet - Oven ignited and made a good dinner.
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Glass broke due to falling over.
22 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Yorkville, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Glass was a little messy cleaning up but removal and placement of new glass and side rails went easy.
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oven would not light
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from FERNDALE, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair was fairly simple, just took the door off, then the 2 screws in the back, lift the bottom out. then remove shield to valve unplug the old igniter. then put it all back in reverse order. it worked great.
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The temperature of the oven was running wild.
16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lyle from Morro Bay, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This proce ss is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.



Lyle Nelson
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Range Top Burners would not ignite
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Monroe, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area wit h as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
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Oven rack missing when I purchased the house
18 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.
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Burners were burning the pans and flames coming out at all different angles of the burner
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ANNE from HICKSVILLE, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing th e burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.
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Oven would not shut off
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • THADDEUS from WEST SENECA, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of s tove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.
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oven would not heat
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • christine from picayune, MS
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
first i removed the screws that held the element and put the other one on. still would not heat . so i took the back of stove ,sides of stove loose to trace wires and under the top of stove i found a wire that comes from oven switch had been bitten into by a mouse wire nutted and electrical taped the wire back togeather and it workes fi ne . keep in mind there are 3 thinge that could be wrong. it goes from the switch, to the gas valve in broialer to the igniter switch,gas,fire .
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igniter would light but would not allow gas flow
15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peggy from Blyght, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the whole burner (3 screws) and the igniter (2 screws). IGNITER comes from Mfg. boxed with wrong plug on igniter - however they supply two porclean nuts so that the wires can be cut and joined. I recommend that you use the plug off the old igniter and splice it to the new part, so that it will plug into the stove's existing plu g
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Interior light needed replaced
22 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from TWIN FALLS, ID
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
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Wife dropped a cast iron pan, it bounced and broke the front glass
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Grand Parie, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
On each side of the door at the top you will find an allen screw, remove those to remove the handle assembly. On the inside of the door, you will find two more silver allen screws, these release the glass frame. On the flimsy part that seperates from the main door frame, there are two small brackets that hold the glass panel. Remove those using a #2 philips head screwdriver, then using a flat head screwdriver, carefully pry out all the ramaining glass shards. The glass frame will be very wobbly, this is a good time to have a friend around. place the new glass panel in the bottom slot first, then just hold it up, with a helper on one side, and reinstall the top brackets. These fit tightly on the glass, so expect to have to push a bit. now reinstall the screws, fold both parts together, use the silver screws to reconnect the glass panel assembly to the door frame, and reinstall the handle. Now you have a nice new door front!
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All Instructions for the 362734
16 - 30 of 376