362733 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Followed the enclosed instructions

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas int ... Read more o the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.

Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cov ... Read more er off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it

Go to utube videos for this are there

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea w ... Read more hat I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

Most trouble I had was removing the screws that were located under the bracket. I had to slip the oven door off first to give me more room. Very hard to get to these screws because of where they were located under the bracket. I had to twist and turn the old igniter to get to it. When finally removed, I replaced the old igniter with t ... Read more he new one using my own screws. I twisted the wires together, and replaced the baffles, the oven floor, and then the door. The oven fired up wonderfully! Thank you for your prompt service for getting me the part quickly and correctly.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room ... Read more to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. ... Read more I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks fo ... Read more r the help.it saved me alot
of money.

My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. ... Read more As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach ... Read more the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.

Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Discon ... Read more nect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one wo ... Read more rd to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!