362721 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Oven will not preheat. Pulses on an off.
7 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from San Francisco, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Turned off the gas. Disconnected gas inlet, burner supply line and oven supply line from regulator. Unscrewed regulator from its bracket. Replaced with new regulator in reverse order and added teflon tape suitable for gas lines to all threads.
Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still do ... Read more es not prehead - acts exactly the same.
Unfortunately, the regulator was not the cause of the problem and the oven still do ... Read more es not prehead - acts exactly the same.
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Wife broke gas lines when trying to clean under hood
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Corinth, MS
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
Removed old line with wrench and attached new line to gas valve first. Then lowered hood to the stop and attached gas line to burners.........very easy and works fine now.
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Burner on stove not working correctly
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Trevor from Eldersburg, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Order parts and installed - no tools needed - completed repairs less than 1 minute
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Oven ,Going on/off intermittently" Very Dangerous during day /at night especially when all is asleep /away from home,not knowing!
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leroy-Anthony from Jamaica, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."
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Digital clock no longer worked
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dolores from AVOCA, IA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.
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lights blown out
6 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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Gas Oven Grates
5 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pam from Browns Mills, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
My grates were all worn and the finish has come off. I took the grates off and put the new ones on. My replacement grates looks awesome. So its still looks worn.
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No ignition
6 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Karen from Dale City, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had t
... Read more
o cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!
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broke tubes while cleaning under top
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sally from Bakersfield, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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Broken thermostat.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no l ... Read more onger able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no l ... Read more onger able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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Getting thew the back
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
William from BOSCOBEL, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I put it in the same way tuck it out
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tube that sends gas to burners broke both left and right front this happen due to opening the range hood to clean inside
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
LEAH from YUMA, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I turn gas off to the appliance then I remove the old gas lines and installed the new ones. I did find it easlier to attach the line at the burner knob first then attach it to the burner.
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while cleaning I broke the tubes either lifting or closing the top.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAPHNE from CHICAGO, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Wrench (Adjustable)
I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.
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