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362713 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 362713
106 - 120 of 358

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Screws fell into a black hole and trouble threading the thermostate
4 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lenora from Crowley, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.
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Oven will not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Danbury, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Checked on this website for ideas. A 20+ year repairman posted that the problem is the control valve and I should replace the igniter while I'm there. The valve was priced at $189 and the igniter $60. I decided to try the igniter first and all is well. Valve not needed.
Steps; remove; door, lower tray, and oven floor pan. Discon nect two igniter wires. Use 6mm sock to loosen gas feed tube, then lift tube up a couple of inches to access igniter screws. Remove them, and reverse process with new part. I tried to R&R the igniter without loosening the gas feed tube but it's a real PITA. Good luck, easy fix.
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Broiler works, oven did not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Rupert from Glen Ellyn, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.
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oven wouldn't heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Darell from Garnerville, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks fo r the help.it saved me alot
of money.
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bottom burner would not ignite
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Truchas, NM
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.
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Oven would not light , Broiler ok
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Grand Haven, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.
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broiler works/oven not so much!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Charlevoix, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one wo rd to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!
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When turned on, oven wouldn't ignite and gas wouldn't flow
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Neenah, WI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!
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Oven would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Palo Alto, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.
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Igniter stopped working
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Arkady from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

/||\
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Getting thew the back
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from BOSCOBEL, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I put it in the same way tuck it out
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Replace igniter
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Miguel from Burlingame, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho
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Oven wouldn't heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • ERIK from MADERA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the bottom pan and then removed the flame extender to get access to the igniter. I removed the two screws and cut the wires. I then wired the new igniter and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the part. After that I installed the igniter. It was very easy to do this repair.
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oven wouldn't heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Josephine from Hawthorne, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm
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Oven would not light
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Downingtown, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cov er off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it
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All Instructions for the 362713
106 - 120 of 358