362712 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I turned off the gas flow to the appliance, removed the old oriface spuds with the adjustable wrench, inserted the new oriface spuds and tightened them with the adjustable wrench. The double burner assembly just dropped on. They fit perfectly. I did not have to use the leveling nuts that were included with the burners. The old levelers we ... Read more re still in place and set perfectly for the new burners. Very easy repair, and the range works like a new one.

Before removing screws, I reached in and felt for where the upper end of the spring attached to the hinge. There are three holes in the end of the hinge arm, so I wanted to be sure of which hole to use. (The holes are very close together, so if the spring falls out before you determine which hole it was in, it probably won't matter so l ... Read more ong as you are sure to use the same hole on both new hinges.) I then removed three Phillips screws per hinge. Once the hinge was loose, I could wiggle it around and release enough of the spring tension to slip the top end of the spring out of the hole on the hinge arm. Then I pulled out the old hinge and inserted the new one and replaced the three screws. Without the tension, the lower end of the spring fell out of the little hole in the oven bottom where it normally attaches. Our gas oven has a broiler rather than a storage drawer, so it was a little difficult to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole. It actually ended up being easier to get the lower tip of the spring back into that hole first, before trying to reattach it to the hinge arm. Once I got the lower end into that hole, I pulled up on the spring and maintained upward pressure on the spring while I fiddled around to get the upper end into the hinge arm hole. Took about 20 minutes, door works perfectly now. Lots of sharp edges inside the oven, so had to be careful.

Pull oven door open about a couple of inches. Grab the door by the sides and pull up to remove from the hinges. Set it aside. Remove the storage drawer under the oven. This gives you access to the tension spring attached to the hinge. Detach it by hand. Using a phillips head, unscrew and remove the damaged hinge. Replace the new hinge. Re ... Read more attach the spring. Replace the storage drawer. Replace the oven door. Done.

0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to unders ... Read more ide of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks f ... Read more or the quick response and delivery.

The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing th ... Read more e burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.

First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again ... Read more to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

Very easy! Open the top of the stove, remove the old double burner and place the new one! Anyone can do it! It's that easy... :)

Removed old gasket and pried out clips with screwdriver. Installed new gasket.

First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on t ... Read more he safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.

Remove the burner grills. Lift the stove top and lift the burners and unscrew the existing orifice spuds using pliers. Screw on the new (Natural gas) orifice spuds.

This oven is from 1993 and a lot less complicated than today's models probably are. The first things to do are to remove the oven door and broiler pan. On this model, the oven door simply lifts off the hinges. Once these are gone, you want to remove the oven floor. To remove, locate the two screws at the back of the floor. After removing, ... Read more lift the floor up and towards the back to pull the floor tongue out of the groove in the front. This will expose the gas jet and ignitor assembly. At the front of the jet pipe is a screw that holds the pipe to the front center of the frame - it is underneath so you may have to bend over to see it, it can be felt easily as well. Remove this screw, this will allow the pipe to be moved a little later. In front of the assembly is a vertical metal plate with a screw at the right of the mounting the plate into the broiler floor. Remove the screw and slide the plate to the left to pull out another tongue/groove set-up. Now you should see the wires completely and the connection to the air-flow adjuster. There is a small screw in the front of this brass fitting, it does not need to be touched. Turn the burner pipe clockwise while lifting and this should pop the assembly up. The ignitor is mounted to the burner pipe by 2 screws that are found on the bottom of the mount. Remove the 2 screws, this will allow the ignitor to hang free. Be sure to pay attention to what wire attaches to what wire, I marked the left wire so that I knew which to reconnect to after the change over. Remove the caps on the wires if this unit has been removed before, if not then mark the wires on both the replacement unit and the original wires. My ignitor has been replaced before, so I used my wire cutter to clean-up the ends of the old connection before reconnecting the new replacement. At this point, you should be able to fire-up the oven, it might take a moment for the new one to warm up, so give about 30-40 seconds. If the oven fires up, it's then working to put everything into place in reverse order. I like to line up the parts and pieces as I remove so I can just put back in reverse.

took lp spud out and put in natural gas spuds.not sure what to do with oven yet it does not work now.