36262 Kenmore Range - Instructions

This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ... Read more ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me ... Read more to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

Dissassembled top of stove, removed porcelain top. unhooked pilot sensing line from oven thermostat. Removed bottom slide out drawer to gain access to pilot and burner assembly. Removed pilot thermocouple and burner assembly. Pulled down old pilot sensing line through insulation @ back of stove. Shoved new pilot sensing line up into insul ... Read more ation @ back of stove. Used long hook to pull line up through insulation. Installed new pilot thermocouple burner assy in bottom. Hooked up new sensing line to oven thermostat.Reassembled top components, lit pilots and tested operation.

Replace part an wires

Replaced old with new.

every thing went great

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then connected the wires to the new element and reinstalled the two screws. A brief test showed the element worked and that was it.

ordered parts, 2 double burners, 3 days later they arrived.opened box.
lift stove top, lift out old burner,placed next to new burner to see if they were the same. THEY WERE. place in new burner, checked to see if burner assembly fit correctly. IT DID.
units purchased were exact replacements. supplied spacer nuts not needed.
... Read more >easy fix looks new again, thanks.

Pulled burner out of socket and pushed new burner into socket. Took less than a minute.

I unscrewed two screws inside the over over the element. Then I slowly pulled the element out and unplugged the two wires attached. Afterward I pushed the element back in place and screwed it back in and was done. Sure saved $550 I thought I might have to spend on a new oven,

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

i dd not notice at first and started the self cleaner,,,i notice the self cleaner did not work,the screws had to be sprayed with dw30a couple of times and a pair of pliers to remove screws(no wrench set)after removing screws pulled the wires out to see and removed the connection to wires,,,replaced with new bake element and replaced the s ... Read more crews works fine,,,by the way i am a 64 years old grandmother

I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!

Removed the hexagon screws. pulled the unit out and wiggled the tabs loose disconnecting them. Installed the new unit-attaching the tabs making sure they were tight. Put the new unit through the opening in the back of the oven and reattached the hexagon screws. Back in business in about 10 minutes.

Lifted the top and dropped in the new burners. Realized they always should have had the leveling washers provided so I took the burners off, dropped on the leveling washers and dropped the burners back on. This all took about 2 minutes. Really made the range top look a lot nicer.