3458 Magic Chef Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven door hinges broken
4 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Lakewood, CO
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my
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own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.
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Other Parts Used:
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Replaced upper over light and assembly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light ass
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embly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.
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40+ year old oven. . . worn out, obsolete door hinges. . .
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Darrin from SEDRO WOOLLEY, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.
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oven would not light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mark from fredericksburg, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced the igniter in oven
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smell gas and sometimes a whoof on ignition
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maynard from Knox, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .
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Igniter Would Glow But Stove Wouldn't Light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ALAN from LUCK, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the pa
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rt and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
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oven would not light , smell of gas
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jerry from staten island, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com
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Oven would'nt heat
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ariel from Oxford, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven wo ... Read more rked perfectly
I replaced the element with the new one and tucked the connector in the insulation. Additional insulation came with the kit. I replaced the two screws that held the element in placed. Oven wo ... Read more rked perfectly
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Oven wouldn't light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from newhall, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
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Oven making whooshing sound and not heating up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!
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smell gas on oven start up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Long Grove, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.
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The broiler would not lite at all and the oven would lite occasionally but would not maintain temperature.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Vincent from Lewes, DE
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I replaced the igniter in both the oven and the broiler. This was my first time ever working on a range.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket ... Read more wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
I removed the oven door for easy access. To replace the oven igniter, I took the bottom floor out of the oven. The igniter is readily visible at the rear of the burner. I removed the two screws holding the igniter with a socket ... Read more wrench. The screws were somewhat stubborn but yielded rather quickly. I gently pulled the two wires attached to the igniter from the back of the oven until the connector was exposed. I disconnected the old igniter and connected the new one. Then I simply reversed the the procedure, tucking the connector and wire back through the hole it came from and re - installed the two screws in the bracket. The insulation provided with the kit was used to plug the hole in the back of the oven.
To replace the broiler igniter, I essentially followed the same procedure. However, I chose not to remove the broiler baffle. This made it more difficult to both remove and re-install the two screws holding the ignitor. Otherwise, everything else went smoothly. If I had to do it again, I'd remove the baffle.
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Replacement of igniter
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Orange, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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igniter glowed, but oven would not light or stay lit
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Grafton, WI
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identi
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cal electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!
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oven took too long to light, then lit with a whump sound
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Sierra Madre, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I read all the reports on your site pertaining to oven igniters and decided to order one. I was amazed when it arrived the next day. I got a lot of tips reading others replys so I lifted off the oven door, took out the racks, removed the 2 screws holding the old igniter and tried to pull it out. There was hardly any slack in the wires, so
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I pulled the stove away from the wall, took off a breadpan size cover in back and found the wires were zip tied to a tube. I cut the tie and unplugged the wires, but the new plug didn't match so I cut the new plug off and rejoined the wires with butt to butt crimp connecters, which I prefer to wire nuts. I used the insulation and new cover from your kit as my old part had the long ceramic insulator and put it all back together. It works like new again and saved me a lot of money. I am very pleased with your product and service, thanks.
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