31311WAM Magic Chef Range - Instructions

removed old clips and remaining parts of old seal...new part already had clips attached, so just snapped them into holes in oven door.

I took the oven bottom out and then removed the screws that cover the safety valve, then I pulled the oven out and undid the safety valve in the rear of the oven. This was all accomplished with the electricity off and the propane also turned off. I then reinstalled the safety valve.

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push ... Read more on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

It was very simple, pull off the old one, then I took some pliers and pulled out the fasteners. Took new gasket from bag and it just snapped into place.

Lifted the top up, only a few inches as the possibality of kinking the gas line was a issue. Took two screws out and replaced the unit, threaded the thermostat down through the oven. It was a breeze. I am 68 year old woman and did I myself.
Most importantly, the process of getting the part was amazing, ordered it in the AM and receiv ... Read more ed it the next day (no extra charge)and by miday the range was good as new. Great service!

It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison

Had to take off burners and lift off top. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and removed old element. Then I did all steps in reverse to install new thermostat.

My husband did it. I was not there to see it. He said it took less than one minute, just snapped in and worked beautifully.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exp ... Read more osing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

clock is in top of double oven. Dis-assembly and access to the clock was a puzzle. Four screws in the top of the oven were the solution. The clock panel then folded out and access to three plug-ins and four screws allowed access to the clock. remounted the clock with four screws and replaced plugs. (watch carefully order of wiring) Re-p ... Read more ower on the oven and set clock. NOTE: Cover said Magic Chef but Label said MayTag

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

I thought that the initial problem based on the users manual may had been the thermostat.
Removal of the old unit and installation of the new one was quite simple.
The only time lag was cleaning some of the surrounding areas of the oven as worked progressed.
As it turned out though, the problem wasn't the thermostat, but ra ... Read more ther the igniter.
But, that was a fairly easy job as well!

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition mod ... Read more ule. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.