31213 - Instructions
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oven takes a long time to reach temp set point
23 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Brooklyn Park, MN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect
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oven burner would not come on.
20 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Theodore C. from Winsted, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.
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Burners would not ignite
19 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Craig from Sequim, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled the stove out from the wall. Removed the left side of the stove. Removed the wires from the old igniter. Modified four of the wire ends with the proper size spade connectors (supplied with the new part). Reinstalled the wires onto the new part. Tested the burners. Reinstalled the stove side. Moved the stove back into position.
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Oven wouldn't lite
20 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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E Blake from Dauphin Island, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the b
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ack of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.
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oven comes on to temp but will not reheat to a new temp third time trouble with same range
17 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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william from newport, VT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was
... Read more
on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you
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Had broken the gas tubes from going to the orvice.
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Wolcottville, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed (4) screws that hold the orfice assemblies in place. Removed the 4 nuts from the gas feed tubes. Placed the two new orfices in place and attached the nuts. Replaced range top and replaced the (4) screws into the orfice assemblies. Done. Worked fine the first time.
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Gas oven took longer and longer to light off even though glow igniter was glowing. When the time grew to 10 minutes and more I knew a repair was needed.
15 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from West Hartford, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to g
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et behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.
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burner would not light; ignitor did not produce spark
16 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Candace L. from Woodinville, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't
... Read more
have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.
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Oven stopped while the wife was cooking.
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marsha from Concord, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!
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Sealed burner caps were rusted within and gas leak through the bottom of the caps
13 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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j from bridgewater, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Just used a car oil filter band type wrench and rotated the sealed burner cap a 1/4 turn. cleaned up the rust and dirty. Replaced it with the new cap and tightened it with a 1/4 turn by hand. Instruction can be found on Maytag gas installation manual. The burners are working well and just like a new range.
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Thermostate seized up (wouldn't turn)
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Village of Fairport Harbor from Fairport Harbor, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the burners, unscrewed the gas assembly from the stove top, removed the two screws securing the thermostat, pulled out the old thermostat, installed new thermostat and put back together in reverse order.
Also, I replaced both "orifice fitting assemblies" due to pinched burner gas lines from previous "Mr. Fix-it's" wor ... Read more king on the stove.
Both jobs were easy for the average do-it-yourselfer and needed minimal tools to accomplish.
Also, I replaced both "orifice fitting assemblies" due to pinched burner gas lines from previous "Mr. Fix-it's" wor ... Read more king on the stove.
Both jobs were easy for the average do-it-yourselfer and needed minimal tools to accomplish.
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Other Parts Used:
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Gas range would not light
16 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from Menlo Park, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.
Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.
Ordered new spark ignitors and plan t ... Read more o complete repair.
Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.
Ordered new spark ignitors and plan t ... Read more o complete repair.
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original light grey color grates stained and unsightly--no amount of scrubbing or cleansers would make them look nice.
16 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Jenison, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Opened the box and took out the black color grates~~removed discolored grates and put the new ones on. Looks like a brand new stove and much nicer to look at as it is the first thing you see when you enter the kitchen.
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Rubber gasket failed due to age
14 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Woodland, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as g
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ood as new.
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Burners would not light and the flame would come out from the bottom of the burner.
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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juan from aurora, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.
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