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3116PRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 3116PRW
31 - 45 of 290

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Bad Door Gasket.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Schuylkill Haven, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
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the lines were broken
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from DELAVAN, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1) removed 2 lines 2) removed 4 screws 3)pulled out old element4) relaced new part 5)installed screws 6) install lines &tighten
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Electronic spark ignition would not ignite intermittently.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Old Bridge, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping th e new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.
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Stove seal fell apart
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa from Washougal, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.
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oven would not turn on flame
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Secaucus, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.
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The oven igniter lit up but the valve wouldn't release the gas to ignite.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured wi th the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.
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oven door gasket torn
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ovide N from Abbeville, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job
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oven wouldn't light
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from marine city, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to f ully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!
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Hammered Orifice tubes
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Devin from Santaquin, UT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
1. Screw the burners counterclockwise 45 degrees to remove each burner. Some gave easily while others were baked on.
2. Remove one philips-head screw per burner.
3. disconnect ignition wire from each burner.
4. remove stovetop.
5. remove the previous hammered orifice and tube assembly by unscrewing 4 nuts.
6. atta ch the new assembly and follow steps 1-4 in reverse order.
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Oven ignighter no longer works
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from PORTERVILLE, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  t ool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry
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Gas was escaping from underneath the burner head
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from ALEXANDRIA, VA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
The old burner head had corroded allowing gas to come out at the bottom. The actual replacement is just turning the head, lifting it out, transferring two wires with slip-on connectors from the old burner to the new one, and dropping the new one in place. Most of the time was spent sanding away corroded metal on the base to make a good fit. The information on the burner head says that the company has decided not to use a gasket under the head. I suggest that was a bad decision.
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Self tapping screws stripped out, one broke in mounting hole
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from FORT WORTH, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.
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OVEN WOULD NOT HEAT
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from MEADVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN
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Oven and burners wouldn't light
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kory from Collingswood, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Easy repair. I removed the module housing at the back of the stove (two screws) and slipped the wires off the old spark module (I had to use pliers to gently pull one or two wires off--it's an old stove). The existing wires slipped right on the new module. I did have to use the mounting adapter that came with the kit, but that was the fiddliest part of the whole repair. It took me longer to move the stove out and back than it did to do the repair.
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Oven wouldn't heat.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from La Crescenta, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pus hed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.
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All Instructions for the 3116PRW
31 - 45 of 290