30-497 Tappan - Instructions

First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of t ... Read more he oven and it popped right out.

There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.

Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.

Bought two to try out to see if they fit and worked-popped out the old ones and the new ones fit and worked like a new stove. Came back to this web site and bought the other two so all burners are now brand new without having to replace the stove.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

It snapped right into the drawer, was very easy

My Tappan Tail:

Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.

Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behi ... Read more nd the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.

Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.

I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.

You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.

What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.

If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).

I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.

After time, the heads of the ... Read more mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.

Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.

First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.

To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).

Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.

I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.

To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.

If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.

I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.

I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.

The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).

Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).

If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.

Hope this helps.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.

Determined how to proceed to disassemble the console. Unplugged the power cord, shut off the gas valve, removed six philips head screws from back panel and one philips head screw from side panel that held the front glass cover in place. Removed the nut off of the old switch body and the two oven control knobs and the timer/clock knob. Rem ... Read more oved the front glass by pulling the right side forward and sliding it slightly to the right. Disconnected the two wires from the back of the old switch.Removed the nut holding the old switch body to the console frame. Replaced with the new switch and did a reassembly by backtracking my steps. I even remembered to clean both sides of the control console glass before reinstalling it. Placed the range back in position, checked it for level, plugged the power cord in and checked for the proper operation of the new switch, turned on the gas and checked for any possible leaks from moving the range. The switch was a perfect match. The picture on the grid paper background really helped in identifying the switch that I needed.

Opened the oven door, removed the racks. Removed the bottom cover, two thumb screws in the rear, bottom, of the oven. This exposed the top plate of the burner, (actually in the top of the broiler section) 1 nut took this cover off. Now, the burner and the igniter are exposed. Two screws removed the igniter, and two wires with ceramic wire ... Read more nuts. Disconnected these two wires and that was it. Installed the new igniter in reverse procedure as above. Pretty easy. Probably should have turned off the power to the Range first just to be safe.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in ... Read more the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)