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2DWTW4815GW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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No fabric softener dispenser
52 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from Port Orchard, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pop the center cap off the agitator and snap the dispenser in. Easy as 1-2-3.
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Shaking violently during spin cycle
31 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harold from MELROSE, FL
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
Replaced the 4 suspension rods/springs. Only disconnect and replace one at a time. The tub will fall out if you disconnect and replace more than one rod/spring at a time.
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washer not agitating
22 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from EAST AMHERST, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
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the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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latch switch was not working
28 of 43 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from BEAVER DAMS, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.
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My tub would hit the sides of the washer during spin cycle.
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ELIZABETH from HARLINGEN, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed youtube video. The repair was easy and fast.
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Whirlpool builds junk lid switches don't lasting when you have suffered water! About every 3 months it goes out! Repairman won't come to fix so I do it myself!
13 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charlie from OAKWOOD, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from Richardson, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Washer model didn't come with softener dispenser
12 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Liz from Winchester, KS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just bought my washer and dryer from Home Depot, but bought an Admiral model that didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. Ordered the part from PartSelect and after rocket fast shipping installed it in seconds. The installation required no tools as the dispenser just snapped right in. My clothes are now soft and free of static clin
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g. Thank you PartSelect!!
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FAULTY LATCH-WASHER WOULD NOT GO INTO SPIN MODE
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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EVAN from STOCKTON SPGS, ME
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
THE NEW LATCH COMES WITH A NEW BEZEL ATTACHED, WHICH MOUNTS TO THE TOP OF THE WASHER, JUST UNDERNEATH THE LID. BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL BEZEL WAS IN PERFECT CONDITION AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, I DECIDED TO REMOVE THE BEZEL ON THE NEW LATCH, AND USE THE ORIGINAL ONE. THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE DONE REGARDLESS IN ORDER TO INSTALL THE NEW LATCH. REMO
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VING THE BEZEL WAS DIFFICULT DUE TO ALL THE LOCKING TABS THAT KEEP IT IN PLACE. I HAD TO RESTRAIN THE SLIDING SWITCH PARTS WHILE I REMOVED TO BEZEL TO AVOID THE ASSEMBLY FROM COMING APART. ONCE I SNAPPED THE NEW LATCH TO THE EXISTING BEZEL, THE ASSEMBLY WORKED FINE. TAKE TIME TO STUDY HOW THE LATCH ASSEMBLY IS ATTACHED TO THE BEZEL SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK SOMETHING. USE A VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO PRY BACK THE PLASTIC TABS IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE BEZEL FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.
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Washer was rumbling at the spin cycle
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Teamos from Frisco, TX
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Unplugged, removed cold and hot lines, moved out to garage, unscrewed 3 screws on the back, lifted up the top, removed and replaced 1 suspension rod at a time with washer leaning against wall sideways, easy peasy didn’t take no time at all, moved it back in 3 screws back in place hot and cold screwed back in and walla! It worked and has
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been working flawlesssly..
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When the washer would go into spin cycle it sounded like the drum was banging all four sides of the washer.
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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LADD from ARCADIA, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!
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washer shaking and banging loudly
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PRECIOUS from LAKE CITY, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I was able to look up the issue on Youtube and watched a few videos and was able to complete the repair with help of my daughter. It was little hard to do but you do need gloves with a good grip when taking the rods out of the washer, but putting the new ones in was very easy.
Once I replaced the suspension rods, there was a li ... Read more ttle shaking but not like before. Very quiet now, no crazy loud banging
Once I replaced the suspension rods, there was a li ... Read more ttle shaking but not like before. Very quiet now, no crazy loud banging
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Shaking and banging around when washing
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jessica from MT STERLING, KY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Youtube has videos. It's very simple just replace one at a time.
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Banging during spin cycle
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rachel from PINELLAS PARK, FL
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
The installation was very easy and took me 45 minutes to complete by myself. I put the washer on two cinder blocks and then removed the lid. I started with the suspension rods that were closest to me and they were really easy to exchange. When I got to the rods in the back they were a little more difficult because there was more tension w
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ith the new rods installed. I used the old rods to hook and pull the new rods into place and it was overall very easy.
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The main knob insert snapped.
11 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from HICKORY, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicat ... Read more es the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
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