This is lid lock designed for use within various washing machines. This lid lock, also known as a latch assembly, is used to secure the lid of your washing machine during the washing cycle. If your washing machine is experiencing issues starting or if the lid is not securing, this lid lock assembly likely needs to be replaced. This lid lo...Read moreck attaches underneath the top portion of your washer and its wire harness connects to the rear of the appliance. To replace this assembly, you will need a screwdriver, flathead screwdriver or putty knife, and wrench. This lid lock is an OEM part that is sold individually and does not come with any other parts or accessories.
This suspension rod kit includes four rods designed to stabilize the wash tub in compatible top-load washing machines. By minimizing vibrations and excessive movement during wash and spin cycles, these rods help maintain balance and improve overall performance—especially when handling off-balance loads. Replacing worn or damaged suspensio...Read moren rods can resolve issues such as shaking, banging, or the washer shifting during operation. Installation requires unplugging the appliance and consulting the user manual for model-specific guidance. This kit is compatible with a range of washing machine models and is sold as a complete set.
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint...Read more is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be care...Read moreful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner includes three slow-dissolving tablets that help remove odor-causing residue from inside the washer. Suitable for all washer brands, including high-efficiency (HE) machines, the formula is also septic-safe. Place one tablet directly in the empty wash basket and run the Clean Washer cycle, or use a normal cycle with hot water. Use monthly or every 30 wash cycles for best results.
This is a lid strike for various models of top-load washing machines. Lid strikes are designed to engage with the lid switch and communicate to the control board that the washer can start. If your washing machine is having issues starting, or if the lid strike for your washer is visibly damaged it will need to be replaced. Replacing this ...Read morewashing machine lid strike is simple and only requires a screwdriver. This lid strike is made almost entirely of durable white plastic and features two holes on either side for securing with screws. This lid strike is an OEM part and is not sold with any other parts or accessories, such as the necessary screws.
This is a shift actuator, and is designed for use in washing machines. This shift actuator is made to change the mode of the motor between spin and agitate, as well as communicate with the control board how fast the washer is spinning. If the shift actuator in your washer is broken or bad, it can lead to the washer not spinning or agitati...Read moreng correctly and may even show an error code related to that. This shift actuator is made mostly of plastic but does feature a 120V/60HZ/2.8W motor. This actuator is an OEM part and is sold individually.
This washer drive block is an essential component that connects the inner spin basket to the drive shaft, enabling proper spinning during wash and spin cycles. Measuring approximately 2-5/16 inches high, it is designed for large-capacity washers with belt or direct drive systems. A worn drive block can cause loud noises, shaking, poor spi...Read morenning, or leave clothes excessively wet. Installation requires basic tools and disassembly; always unplug the appliance and shut off water supply before starting the repair. Regular inspection and timely replacement help maintain optimal washer performance.
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Dennis - For model number 2DWTW4705EW1
September 5, 2021
Machine not turning on, no lights on the panel.
Hello Dennis, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Outlet the appliance is plugged into and checking the Power Cord. If they are good, the Control Board could be defective. We hope this helps!
Hello Beverly, thank you for the question. According to our research, we are providing you with general instructions that will help you reset your washer.
1- Turn the washing machine off manually.
2- Locate the washing machine’s circuit breaker in your house’s electric panel.
3- Lift the circuit breaker. This will disconnect the power from the washing machine.
4- Wait for 3 minutes.
5- Reset the circuit breaker to bring power back to the appliance.
6- Wait 30 seconds.
7- Turn the machine on at the control panel.
We hope this helps!
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Ramone - For model number 2DWTW4705EW1
December 18, 2024
Maschine when turn on it keep on making a click click sound when lock or open
Hi Ramone, thank you for contacting us. Based on our understanding, the issue could be with the lid lock assembly, part number PS12704713. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
Hello David, thank you for your question. A loud banging noise from a Whirlpool 2dwtw4705ew1 washing machine during the spin cycle is often caused by an unbalanced load or a problem with the suspension system. The suspension rod kit is PS11703288. We hope this helps.
What causes flashing lidlock light on machine and it won't do anything.
Hello Terrence, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, you will need to replace the lid lock assembly, part number PS12704713, to fix the issue. We hope this information helps!
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No fabric softener dispenser
52 of 70 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dennis from Port Orchard, WA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pop the center cap off the agitator and snap the dispenser in. Easy as 1-2-3.
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Shaking violently during spin cycle
32 of 39 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Harold from MELROSE, FL
Easy
1- 2 hours
Replaced the 4 suspension rods/springs. Only disconnect and replace one at a time. The tub will fall out if you disconnect and replace more than one rod/spring at a time.
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washer not agitating
22 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from EAST AMHERST, NY
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Socket set
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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