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2940 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 2940
1 - 15 of 92

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the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
88 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chaz from fairplay, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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Burner would go high without warning
60 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Clinton, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.
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Left front burner would not adjust heat downward
35 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ALTON from ROUND ROCK, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull unit away from wall.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.
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The old switch broke off.
34 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Pasadena, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.
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Burner was not heating up
33 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Hellertown, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.
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8" Burner element intermittent, unable to control.
25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Enfield, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Easy.... UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE 240 VOLT OUTLET & READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW PART !! Removed upper rear cover panel 8 screws & removed panel, removed knob & 2 screws from front of control unit (on the control panel), pulled the control off the panel from the rear, removed the wires on the rear of control & connected th em to the SAME terminals on the new control (one at a time). Then installed the new control by reversing the procedure above. Took about 15 minutes. IMPORTANT HINTS: 1) Make sure you save the little black pressure clip from the control stem on the new control, if you need to break-off the little part at the end of the stem. You will need to push the clip back into the recess on the new stem, in order for the knob to stay on the stem when you put it back on; 2) Use a needle-nose plier to pull the wire clips from the old control terminals & push them onto the same terminals on the new control, one at a time so the wiring is correct.
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Burner would not heat
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Malvern, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.
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Burner would go red hot once and awhile
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile
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gas burners and gas oven would not light
14 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • nicholas from livermore, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.
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Ignitor did not spark when turning the know
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Lansing, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that atta ch to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.
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burner quite heating discovered switch was the problem
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from McClelland, IA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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Burner control indicator light
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Fredericksburg, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.
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The range burners would not catch a spark and ignite. They would just keep clicking with no ignition.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adrienne from Lake Havasu City, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exp osing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.
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The switch had shorted
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from COlleyville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.
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All Instructions for the 2940
1 - 15 of 92