2900 - Instructions

Did the repair Myself. Saved $ 400.00 in the process.

I diagnosed by running a full wash. I watched it and when the water should have stopped it kept running. I unplugged the washer from the power and the water kept running. This told me the inlet valve was the issue and not an electronic issue. I stopped the water by closing the water valve manually. Replacing the inlet valve was very easy ... Read more . Hardest part is moving the washer out of the laundry room. The videos online show very simple steps. Maybe 8 screws to remove and a couple of hoses and five electronic connectors. Take a photo of connectors before removing them to ensure you reconnect properly.

The problem was the valve suppling water to the bleach dispenser was not closing completely. This also caused some water leaking towards
the front of the washer. Replacing the entire valve assembly was very
easy. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, remove the 2 screws that attach the control panel, disconnect the water supp ... Read more lies, unplug the 5 solenoids, remove the hose clamps from the 2 hoses, remove the 3
screws that attach the valve assembly and remove it. Reassemble in reverse order, I did find that applying some water based personal lubricant to the 3 high pressure seals made assembly much easier.

This is a15 minute , 1 person job. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers to unhook drain hoses from pump, 10mm socket, flashlight or a good light source,
and some rags to clean up water. Unplug washer from outlet, drained out as much water as possible, turned it away from wall so I had room. Unscrewed 4 screws from back pa ... Read more nel. Unhooked drain hose from tube to pump, some water will leak out, have towels ready to soak up. Then unhook the other drain hose from pump to wall drain. Get your 10mm socket with ratchet ready, unhook the blue and white wires that attach to pump, then use your ratchet to remove 3 bolts that hold pump. Replace in reverse order. This is a very easy job.

To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t ... Read more hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.

I found the pulsator just spun freely, I determined the hole on underside should ribbed to align with the ribbed shaft. But it was wore away. I purchased the new part and replacement was simple. It slide right on and I replaced the bolt. Pulsator works great, washing again.

Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remo ... Read more ve the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.

After getting the model info from the back of the washer control panel, I searched Partselect for the water valve part. Easy process, It was here in 2 days. Unplug the machine, I took 2 screws out of the back of the control console and tipped it forward to reveal the valve assy. Turn off the water at the wall and disconnect the hot and co ... Read more ld lines from the washer . I removed the 3 screws holding the valve assy to the deck and with pliers disconnected the 2 clamped rubber lines and then with just finger pressure wiggled the valve from the remaining pipe connections. I swapped the 5 wire connectors to the new valve and wiggled it back into place. Clamped the 2 rubber lines again. and then connected the water inlet hoses to the new valve. Closed it up and called the laundry lady ( sorry honey) 30 minutes to Household harmony again!!

Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.

There was a 10MM bolt under ... Read more the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.

The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.

I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, s ... Read more elect, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.

Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem s ... Read more olved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it di ... Read more d not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.