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2889A Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 2889A
106 - 120 of 301

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The oven would not light and the house smelled like gas.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Mission Viejo, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connec ted them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.
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Drawer glides were snapped off
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MICHELLE from STOUGHTON, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The drawer under the oven had been aggravating me for some time. It was titled and did not close right. Finally, I took it out to see what the problem was and noticed that the glides were broken. I googled the model no. of the stove (figuring I would have no luck) and to my great relief was directed to this EXCELLENT site. I ordered the new drawer glides within minutes and they were literally delivered the next day. Snapped right in, fixed, happy!! It's times like this when I can't figure out how we all lived without the internet!
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Oven wouldn't come on
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Arthur L from Huntington, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.
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Oven wouldn't heat , glow from bottom, and strong smell of gas
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clayton from Gulf Breeze, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two sc rews on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.
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Oven would not come on. If it did, it took a long time to heat up.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Greenbackville, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. St ripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.
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Old handle was rusted.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa from ORMOND BEACH, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair was easy. just unscrewed the old handle, holes measured correctly and screwed in the new handle.The only flaw was that it did not come with the two end caps,they have to be bought separately & the handle ends are sharp without them.
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the oven was slow to light and didn't reach the set temperature
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the bottom of the oven and flame guard for access to the ingniter. I then replaced the ingniter. The oven works like new now.
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light bilb went out
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denise from Landover, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced it
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Igniter lights up, but no flame appears, no gas
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denise from Clinton Township, MI
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, w orked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,
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Oven would not light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Valencia, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I fi rst unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.
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Oven would not heat up
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from Crescent, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured m ore than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.
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Oven And Broiler Wouldn't Light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DENNIS from HERKIMER, NY
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.
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oven doesnt light at times
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from temecula, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $ 250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.
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oven whouldn't come on or if it did it whould take along time to come on and stop after awhile
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from Garfield Hts., OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
pulled bottom door out as far as you can. lift out broiler tray and the tray under that. to get the door completely out. on each side of the rail holding the door from come out push in the tap on each side and pull the door all the way out and off. reach inside and take out two nuts holding the old igniter and cut the two wires and remove it
stripe about 1/4 in of the wire. attache the wire from the new igniter. hold them two and use the white cap and twist it on the two wires and do the same to the other two wires. Bolt the igniter back on with the two bolts and your done. When you turn on the oven the igniter will click and turn on. it will be alot brighter then the old one and the oven will start pretty fast.
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Oven Would Not Light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Neil W. from Westerville, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I replaced both gas valve and igniter. I removed oven door and bottom of oven for easy access to both. The door slid off easy and the bottom was held by two thumb screws. I removed the gas flare for easy access to igniter & valve. I then removed the igniter & valve using nutdriver, phillips screwdriver and adj wrench. I then followed simple instructions supplied for wire connect on igniter and valve. It was a very easy job for a 25 yr old stove. I made the mistake of ordering only the valve and ordered the igniter later. Having both new parts causes the oven to light in about 30 seconds. Im glad I found partselect online. Nh, westerville, oh
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All Instructions for the 2889A
106 - 120 of 301