2873B Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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bad igniter electrode on rear left burner
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from SHELBYVILLE, TN
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the ... Read more mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the ... Read more mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
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broken lens over oven light
11 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Leslie from Warsaw, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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Glides broke on lower storage drawer
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from WEST BEND, WI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.
Other Parts Used:
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gas oven won't light
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from GRASS VALLEY, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.
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Refrigerator Light bulb went out
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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Oven Igniter stopped working
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from San Francisco, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then, I removed the base of the oven (the oven floor) by easily removing two screws. I also removed the flame guard by removing a screw. That easily exposed the old oven igniter. I removed the two small screws that held that in place. The igniter is connected by two wires, which you
... Read more
'll have to snip. Snip those very close to the igniter (leave about an inch of wire on the igniter). Using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath of the existing wires. On the new igniter, snip the wires leaving about 2 inches still connected to the igniter. Using the wire stippers, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath. Using the plastic wire caps that came with the new igniter, connect the wires from the oven to the corresponding wire on the new igniter. Screw the new igniter back in place. Replace the flame guard and oven floor. Turn on the circuit breaker and start cooking again!
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Oven wasn't staying on and or re-lighting, recycling to maintain the set Temp.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
michael from MILFORD, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Opened the oven door, removed the racks. Removed the bottom cover, two thumb screws in the rear, bottom, of the oven. This exposed the top plate of the burner, (actually in the top of the broiler section) 1 nut took this cover off. Now, the burner and the igniter are exposed. Two screws removed the igniter, and two wires with ceramic wire
... Read more
nuts. Disconnected these two wires and that was it. Installed the new igniter in reverse procedure as above. Pretty easy. Probably should have turned off the power to the Range first just to be safe.
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While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phyllis from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in
... Read more
the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
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Broken door glide
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Michael from Signal Hill, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.
Other Parts Used:
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replacing oven racks
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Lawrence from Elmira, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)
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Old racks had melted plastic on them.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from PAINESVILLE, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
It was a replace racks not repair. No problem
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Drawer Glide Was Broken
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Karen from Yuma, AZ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took the drawer out, snapped the new glide in place, and replaced the drawer. Installation was simple with no tools required.
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Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Alan from SAN MATEO, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
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oven very slow on heating up up to five minutes to ignite.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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manny from oakland, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire
... Read more
and reassemble in reverse order.
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burner would not lite
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Ronald from Manchester, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
switch out wires on spark module same burner would not lite
oder burner instead of igniter for four dollars more for new burner and igniter it made sense. Changed burner out burner works
thanks
Ron
oder burner instead of igniter for four dollars more for new burner and igniter it made sense. Changed burner out burner works
thanks
Ron
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