This freezer door key is designed for use with most upright and chest freezers. It is an authentic OEM replacement part. Your appliance has a lid or door that locks and unlocks, this key controls that function. If your key is lost or damaged this is the replacement you need. Be sure to store this key someplace safe, we also recommend that...Read more you store it away from the freezer. This part is made of plastic, is white in color, and it is sold individually.
This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater to maintain the set thermostat temperature, preventing the unit from being too warm or cold. The defrost timer may...Read more need to be replaced if the fridge will not maintain its temperature or has frost buildup. Depending on the model, it could be located on the rear panel or ceiling of the fresh food compartment. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before replacing this part.
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The run capacitor is attached to the compressor. This part is 120 volts and 15 mfd. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your fre...Read moreezer. If your refrigerator is too warm, will not start, or your freezer section is too warm, you may need to replace this part. This is a genuine OEM part. Please remember to disconnect power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This evaporator fan motor is 115V. If you notice that your freezer is noisy or is too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan motor. This package comes with the evaporator fan motor itself, as well as a wire harness. The evaporator fan motor is in the back of the freezer, so you will need to remove your freezer shelves and the ba...Read moreck panel before you can access it. The function of the evaporator fan motor is to circulate air over the coils. The coils convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. Be sure to remove the power source from the freezer before you begin this repair.
This is an LED light for a variety of refrigerator models. This 3.8W LED light is used to shine and adequately light the contents of your refrigerator when you open its door. If your current light is significantly dimmer than normal, or simply not working anymore, it will need to be replaced. To replace this bulb, unplug your fridge momen...Read moretarily, and then simply unthread the old one and screw in the new one. This bulb is sold individually and does not come with any other parts.
This part could be found underneath a fridge, dryer, or freezer. The original foot may be cracked, broken, or perhaps missing altogether. If you notice the appliance is uneven to the floor or wobbling, it may indicate that the levelling foot needs to be replaced. You will need pliers and a block of wood to perform this task. There will be...Read more one adjustable foot found in the package. Lift the dryer and place the wood to keep it propped up. You may need to use the pliers to remove the old foot. Screw the new foot into place using your hand. Once the new leveling foot is in place, lift the appliance and remove the block. Test the machine out to ensure it is now sitting level.
This genuine OEM hinge mounting screw is designed for use in Frigidaire and Electrolux refrigerators, providing a secure and reliable way to fasten door hinges to the cabinet. Built with a durable hex washer head and standard threading, it helps restore proper door alignment and maintain a tight seal to prevent cold air loss. Ideal for re...Read moreplacing worn, stripped, or corroded hardware, this heavy-duty screw ensures long-lasting stability and dependable everyday performance.
This freezer door gasket is a genuine replacement part designed to create an airtight seal around the door of select Frigidaire refrigerators. By preventing warm air from entering and cold air from escaping, the gasket helps maintain consistent internal temperatures, supports energy efficiency, and reduces frost and ice buildup. Made from...Read more flexible, durable material, it fits securely into the door frame and compresses when the door is closed to form a tight seal. If the gasket is cracked, warped, or no longer sealing properly, replacing it can restore optimal performance. Always verify compatibility with your refrigerator model before installation.
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Raul - For model number 253.22042410
August 10, 2026
Does this freezer have a drain pan?
Hi Raul, thank you for the question. Yes, the drain pan for your model is part number PS11726379. It is located near the compressor. We hope that helps!
My freezer freezes for 7 days than gets warm and does not freeze, changed defrost timer. Anything else to look at and how do you test thermostat control switch. Phillip
Hello Phillip, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Thermostat on the Defrost Heater. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. We hope this helps!
I noticed water on the floor in front of freezer yesterday. Noticed frozen sheet of ice on bottom deck of freezer and ice in the opening behind the basket. Nothing in the pan underneath. Staying cold, zero now. Some water in the pan underneath, no water on floor now. No new ice on bottom deck, still ice behind the basket. What is your suggestion for where to start on this defrost issue?
Hello Paul, thank you for your question. It sounds like the defrost drain may be blocked. You can try to defrost or unblock it with a turkey baster and hot water by forcing water down the tube. We hope this helps.
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David - For model number 25322042410
November 19, 2023
What is the cubic capacity
Hi David, thank you for contacting us. The capacity of your freezer is 20.2 Cu. Ft. We hope this information is useful!
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Bobby Moore - For model number 25322042410
January 9, 2020
My freezer stops freezing i can turn the cold knob and it comes back on but when it reaches the correct temp. It starts thawing out. Turn the knob and it comes back on
Hello Bobby, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing/replacing the temp control PartSelect Number PS12365300, compressor start device PartSelect Number PS11728176 and the run capacitor PartSelect Number PS3495561. I hope this helps!
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After getting wiring diagram off internet it was diagnosed as freezer stuck in defrost mode, temp alarm on, but fan running.
82 of 99 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Navarre, FL
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Screw drivers
Turned gray knob on defrost timer (located bottom left back of freezer) past defrost position to verify compressor would run...it would not, but fan would run. Tested run capacitor...found borderline defective (weak, wrong value ohm meter kick). Just to be sure, removed interior shelves and interior rear and gasket to check heater at 20
... Read moreohms as OK and removed thermostat and verified contact closure after exposure in another freezer....re-installed, hooked heater back up and re-installed interior rear panel. Replaced defrost timer by unplugging 4-pin connector, then removed 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. Installed new one in reverse order. Then removed wire bail holding run capacitor to compressor plug assembly, removed run capacitor, plugged in new one. Turned on freezer......now making ice and holding cold temperature and cycling properly between freeze and defrost modes. Two problems made this repair a bit more difficult. This is the second time that defrost timer has failed...only got 3 years from last one.
I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and bot
... Read moreh worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop
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Temp alarm sounding and food on top shelves partially thawed
43 of 52 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Wayne from Forest Hill, MD
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the
... Read moren turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
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