2488 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven would not light
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from LONG BRANCH, NJ
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement
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screws the job was very easy.
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oven would not light -igniter was on
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from South Amboy, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
removed shelves and base, removed 2 screws that held igniter on, disconnected wires from gas valve removed protective cover in corner {1 screw}
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
disconnected plug, removed igniter. This igniter was easier to remove from front of stove on this model
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The oven would take forever to heat up, and sometimes not at all. Othertimes it would heat up, but not stay hot for the entire baking time.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Los Angeles, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I unplugged the oven from the wall. I opened the bottom drawer of the oven to see where the igniter was mounted, which was directly under the bottom pan of the oven itself. I opened the main oven door and unscrewed the 2 screws that were holding the pan to the bottom of the oven. Then, I slid the pan back towards the the back of t
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he oven and it popped right out.
There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.
Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
There were 2 hex screws that were holding the old igniter on, so I unscrewed them with my socket set. I made sure to pay attention to which wire was the top one and which one was the bottom one coming out the back of the igniter. I pulled off the wire nuts connecting the igniter wires to the wires of the oven. I striped the wires on the new igniter and re-attached them to the proper wires of the oven, using the included replacement ceramic wire nuts. I re-screwed the hex nuts in, mounting the new igniter to its proper place. I put the pan back and screwed the 2 screws back in to hold it in place.
Plugged it back in, turned it on, fired up within 20 seconds. Good as new.
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burners rusted out on one side since the stove is 19 years old
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Elizabeth from Johnstown, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Bought two to try out to see if they fit and worked-popped out the old ones and the new ones fit and worked like a new stove. Came back to this web site and bought the other two so all burners are now brand new without having to replace the stove.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Evaporator coils would freeze up solid
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Walt from Sutter, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed everything from inside freezer compartment (food and shelves) Removed inside backpanel that covered the coils. At the top of the coils is where the thermostat was attached. Removed old one and installed new. Has been working since.
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The plastic ring that is the connection between the drive motor at the back of the freezer compartment to the auger in the ice bin shattered when my wife was dispensing crushed ice.
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Anchorage, AK
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and ... Read more I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and ... Read more I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.
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Oven racks rusted
11 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wendell from Ocala, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered new racks and replaced them.
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Ignitor glows but not hot enough to open the gas valve. It's old.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from MESQUITE, TX
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My Tappan Tail:
Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.
Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behi ... Read more nd the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.
Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.
I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.
You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.
What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.
Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.
Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behi ... Read more nd the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.
Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.
I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.
You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.
What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.
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Condenser Fan Motor seized up
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Herndon, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!
Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!
Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!
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freezer will not freeze or cool the ice box
8 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Choctaw, OK
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not workin
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g correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson
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The old ice maker was leaking water when it filled freezing the ice in the accumulation tray into one big lump.
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Franklin, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I read the instructions that came with the replacement ice maker, which I found confusing because they were apparently written to be installed in some other make of refrigerator. However, after removing the white plastic cover on the new unit and insuring that it was identical to the one that came with the refrigerator, I removed t
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he old unit by first, removing the bottom screw that held the unit to the side of the refrigerator. Then, I loosened the two top mounting screws. slid the unit up and pulled out and away from the side of the refrigerator. Then, holding the unit in my left hand, I pinched the two plastic tongs on either side of the wiring harness where it attached to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, took the ice maker out of the freezer compartment and set it aside. Then I located the water regulator screw on the right side of the new ice maker and turned it one complete turn clockwise to reduce the amount of water that would fill the unit. After reinstalling the white plastic cover on the new ice maker, I saw that the wiring harness that came with it would not fit my refrigerator's outlet. So I removed the wiring harness from the old ice maker and installed it on the new one. Then I connected it to the outlet at the back of the refrigerator, slid the ice maker over the two top mounting screws and then pulled down to seat the screws. Next, I used a small torpedo level to level the ice maker both vertically and horizontally. This required placing several flat washers behind the metal mounting bracket at the bottom of the ice maker and the refrigerator wall. Once I had leveled the new ice maker, I tightened all three screws and shut replaced the ice receiver tray. Works fine.
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The Shaft of the Auger Drive Motor Became Stripped
7 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anthony from Amenia, ND
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3
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electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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refrigerator not cooling properly
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ernie from Windsor, CA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is
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now running as it should.
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