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22MW-7KLXV8 Magic Chef Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 22MW-7KLXV8
1 - 15 of 312

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Oven would not work but the Broiler did
337 of 374 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ferndale, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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light bult needed to be replaced
222 of 328 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deborah from Millersville, MD
  • Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the li ght bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
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Oven would'nt light
131 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Charlestown, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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oven failed to light
71 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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Bulb "burnt out"
98 of 164 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Pembroke, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 1 screw, removed "burnt out" bulb and replaced it with new bulb.
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Oven would not ignite
57 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Paris, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
This repair project was too easy!...and cheap. Sears quoted the price of the igniter at $280 plus the service call and the item cost $41 on PartSelect. The part was received the next day after the order was placed...WOW! So easy, turn off the power to the oven, open the oven door, remove the oven racks and lift the bottom pan of the oven up from the back and set it aside. There you see the flat type igniter in plain view at the back of the oven. Remove two screws with nuts using a nut driver (I had trouble because the screws were corroded and I had to use some, um, force to get them out and swore a little too). Once the screws were out, pull the igniter elecrtic wires and connector from the entrance hole in the back after moving a little insulation out of the way. Release the connector plug and unplug the old igniter and simply plug in the new one. Find new screws and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to push the connector and wiring back into the hole and cover with the insulation. Very easy job that anyone could do.
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One burner was not igniting .. no clicking sound .. no spark.
45 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Herb from Sumas, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
On this range, the switch at any one burner causes the igniters to spark on all four burners. However, there was no spark anywhere when I turned the knob for the front right burner. This indicated a fault in the switch on that knob. Very important to start by unpluging the power cord (I got zapped trying to skip that part!) Then remov e all four burners, by turning them counterclockwise and lifting. Remove all igniter wires and set the burners aside. At the edge of each of the burner holes is a screw. Remove all four of these screws, then you can pry the cooktop up and remove it. Pull all four knobs off, and remove the four screws attaching the cover behind the knobs (two on top and two below (above oven door). This exposes the igniter switches. Slide the broken switch off the shaft, and remove the wires. (There is a small release tab at each pole of the switch. Depress it with a small screw driver and the wires can be pulled out.) Push the wires into the new switch, slide it into place, and put everything back together. Solved my problem!
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glow bar would light but oven would not light
39 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Van Nuys, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the rear access panel on the oven in order to get to the igniter wires. While testing the output voltage of the old igniter when on, I found that it was producing less than 3 volts ac. This was my clue that although the igniter glowed, it was going bad and needed to be replaced. I unpluged the oven, shut off the gas feed to the oven then removed the oven bottom pan (pull two push pins back, lift up and out) and removed the burner baffle wing nut with baffle. This gave easy access to the igniter and it's two mounting screws which i removed using a phillips screw driver. I unpluged the old igniter from the connector, pluged in the new one after routing it through the access hole from inside the oven to the back of the oven where the connector is located.
Mounted the new igniter, replaced the burner baffle, baffle nut, oven bottom, rear access panel cover, checked and turned on the gas, plugged the oven back in and sure enough it fired up right away. if you check the system of how your oven works and find the problem, it's easy to fix it yourself and save serious money...and look like a hero to the rest of the family.
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No spark at top burners, first one then eventually all 4.
35 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from Bryson City, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Most of the repair time was spent researching the problem online, locating the spark module inside the range, and selecting the part online. Installation was easy. Key troubleshooting info for me was, if there is no clicking, the spark unit is probably worn-out. I traced the ignition wires from the burners down to the spark module, locate d inside a 2x3" metal housing next to the bottom drawer. I removed 2 screws and out it came. The replacement unit pictured on the PartSelect site was not identical to the original but had the same number of contacts. I ordered the part and it arrived a few days later. The old connectors slipped easily onto the new pins, and I screwed the new unit into the range using the new metal housing. All 4 burners now spark up quickly, and we saved at least $100 on a service call. It was well worth the time and effort -- thanks!
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Burner wouldn't start
35 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yury from Brooklyn, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Make a quarter turn counterclockwise, disengage a burner head, disconnect 2 wires, connect to a new head, install turn clockwise.

That's it!
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Oven would not light
29 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This oven was located in a rental house I own.

I first removed the metal plate that covers the burners at the bottom of the oven. No tools required for this step.

Next I turned the oven to 300 degrees, waited 30 seconds and noticed that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the burners did not light.

I nex t turned the oven controls off, pulled the plug, and set to work removing the 2 screws holding a plate to the back oven wall and the 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. These last 2 screws had corrosion on them and I needed to use vise-grips to get a firm hold on them. During reassembly these screws no longer held firmly because the hole they threaded into was enlarged during disassembly.

With the screws loose I pulled the igniter and fished the wires connected to it through the opening until I saw the connector. I then pulled the stove out of its opening and saw that there was a easily removable metal cover over the wires, and I took it off.

The new igniter came with an incompatible plug, so I cut off the connector on the stove wiring and on the new igniter and used wire nuts to make the new connections. I kept the orientation of the old and new plugs the same way in case the wiring mattered, but that was just being safe. I don't know if the igniter cares which of its wires go to which wire on the stove.

I reinstalled the screws holding the igniter, and shoved short sections of the supplied wiring into the screw holes so that the screws would hold more tightly. I shoved the supplied insulation into the opening that the wires passed through, and reattached the cover at the back of the stove.

I shoved the stove back into its opening, turned the oven on and it lit within 15 seconds.

I was very happy with the result, and the product I ordered arrived on time, well packaged and I'm a very happy customer.
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burned out bulb
28 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from plainfield, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.
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oven takes a long time to reach temp set point
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Brooklyn Park, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
i need to replace the lower oven igniter about 2-3 years
unplug the oven
open the oven door half way then slide the door up
take out both racks
push the bottom pan away from you and lift up
one screw holds the igniter on
pull the wire out until you get to the electrical plug
disconnect
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oven burner would not come on.
20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore C. from Winsted, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I am a retired lp Gas service person so this was quite
simple for me. Replaced the oven Igniter. What amazed me I placed my order and had the Igniter less than 24 hours. thank you so much for the quick service.
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Burned out light bulbs in microwave hood stove
24 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Herbert from Norton, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to cat ch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.
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All Instructions for the 22MW-7KLXV8
1 - 15 of 312