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22104 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 22104
16 - 30 of 45

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Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from West Liberty, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enoug h slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
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no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My kn ob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from langdon, ND
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Duvall, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kokomo, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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Old and corrosive due to age
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from McConnells, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
After receiving parts, was getting rims unpackaged and removing the old rims, then and installing the new ones. Extremely easy to do. No tools needed
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Old trim rings were rusted and soiled
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Bridgton, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Too easy to describe. Just lifted out the old rings and popped in the new ones. PartSelect is my go-to source for appliance parts both for my home and my job as maintenance man for residential group homes in my area. Website is easy to use, prices are good, shipping is always surprisingly fast. Thank you.
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needed to replace drip bowl and trim ring
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephanie from Kitty Hawk, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The replacement drip bowl and trim ring fit perfectly.
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The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
3 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Harvard, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters do n't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
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I needed new trim rings around the stove burners
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KoLynn from Tempe, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I logged into GE's website, put in my stovetop's requirements for size and type of trim rings, and was taken to partselect's site where I found what I needed. I ordered it and it came in less than a week!
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instructions could be better
0 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLARD from GLOVERSVILLE, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
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Burner constantly heated
  • Clifford from New smyrna beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Good directions
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Front Burner,no control of.
  • Joseph from Baden, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The original controls were different for the small burners and the large burners. The replacement part fits all. Before removing wires, pay attention to writing on new and old control and replace 1 at a time. The hardest part was being sure to cut the knob stem to the correct length. Control works well.
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Shaft for burner control knob broke off
  • Carol from Hamilton, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I flipped breaker off for electic and confirmed that power to the stove was off. I removed the 2 screws holding the control unit in place. Carefully removed all knobs and buttons and pryed the cover for the control unit off. I then removed old part, removed the wired and clipped wires to the new unit. Put cover back on - has some difficul ty getting the panel back in place to line up the screws. But after a couple of attempts, was able to line up unit and put screws in place to secure. Replaced all knobs. Turn breaker back on and cooked lunch. Very easy job. Most difficult part was getting panel back in position. I would watch alignment more carefully before I removed in next time. Easy home repair for Women...not sure about my man?
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R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
  • James from Nashville, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
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All Instructions for the 22104
16 - 30 of 45