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2087 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 2087
46 - 60 of 163

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Bad fan motor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Farmington Hills, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pop off six mounting screws and the ground screw. Remove the fan blade and reattach. Reinstall. Save yourself big bucks.
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Ice cubes would not stop discharging
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • solomon from henrico, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After going to manufacturer's web site and customer service phone, was unable to locate the correct switch in the dispenser area on the door. Your web site had the picture of the switch and it was right on and in stock. Shipping was quick and inexpensive. Repair went quick and all is well.
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leak at water valve for ice maker
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Hendricks, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
removed part., got number, went online,found part, ordered part, paid for part, replaced part.
works great. !
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Refrigerator and freezer compartment gradually get warmer, frost buildup on back of freezer compartment.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Rock Rapids, IA
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove freezer contents, shelving, baskets, shelf brackets, basket rails. Then, remove the icemaker including the ice basket, the cube freezer and the motor assembly. Remove the back liner of the freezer compartment. Remove and replace the defrost heater assembly, using the old mounting brackets and connecting the wires to the same ter minals. Reassemble. Discard excess screws :).
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ice accumulating on evaporator of freezer.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rolando from round lake beach, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed ice maker bin,removed screws on back panel cover. Pulled out panel cover,thawed accumulated ice, unscrewed bracket holding defrost heater set, unplugged busted defroster, plugged in new defroster set,installed it back, installed back panel cover, ice maker and powered it on.More than a week after installation,I don't see any signs of ice accumulation on back panel cover.
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No ice was made
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gene from Highland Village, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed power, removed the ice maker being held with three screws. Replaced with old unit. This box was so old that I robbed parts from the old and placed them on the new unit. Mkes ice very good.
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valve froze and busted was leaking water on floor
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bryan from Roberts, ID
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
took nut driver and removed screw holding valve to refrigerator removed valve. Swapped water lines from old valve to new valve,plugged in selonoid wire harness to new valve reattached the water valve to referigerator and turned water on and forgot it. No leaks,ice and water in 24 hrs.
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Fan was noisy - bearing had failed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karl from Wellesley, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
It's self-explanatory. The procedure is obvious; it's just a little difficult. The only hard part is attaching the mounting brackets to the fan. If you can't tighten the mounting bolts, loosen them and reposition the brackets. You might end up mispositioning them at first, because they are hard to reach.
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Refrigerator compartment warming up
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CHRIS from BAYTOWN, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The can drinks in refrigerator were not as cold as usual. I opened the freezer and touched the back panel and noticed there was a frost buildup. Since I have had this problem before, I knew that the defrost heater must be bad. I removed all the shelves and the tracks. The back panel is held in by 8 small sheet metal screws. I removed the screws and pulled the back panel up and out. The refrigerator is in garage, so I put a fan in front of it and the fan melted the ice off the coils. I disconnected the wires and checked the the heaters (both wired together) with an ohm meter. The meter showed the heaters to be open. (bad). Actually only 1 of the 2 heaters were bad, but I replaced both of them since they are wired together as a set.
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Replaced The Ice Maker.
5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from prescott, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Very slowly, had no clue what I was doing. Instructions were great, and even I got the job done.
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Freezer-side cold; Fridge-side warm of side-by-side Refridgerator
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cami from Carmel, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
evaporator coils were frozen solid and air wasn't flowing across them

read all directions first, then consider which steps you'd like to take

in any case...
- check for blockages in the upper and lower air vents that allow air from freezer side to cool the fridge-side
- inspect that the fan in the freezer s ide is actually turning and not blocked


- if no blockages and air is flowing between the sides...

- unplug the unit
- remove all goods from freezer and fridge
- remove freezer side racks
- remove rear panel on freezer side using philips screwdriver (note that the ice-cube tray motor housing must be freed by removing its screws. it can be pull out a bit to get to a single screw holding the top of the rear panel in place)
- allow the evaporator coils to evaporate all ice off, checking the drain pan under the fridge frequently - accelerate the process using a hair dryer or paint stripper (heat gun)
- disconnect the white wires from the connection block located about 2/3 of the way up the rear wall and check resistance using an ohmeter (see specs on back of fridge on circuit diagram)
- if you get a very high resistance reading, the heater element is likely broken. if so...
-- remove the 2 metal shields located horizontally across the evaporator coils (behind them are the two series-connected defrost heater elements)
-- visually inspect the elements - if they are discolored green or black, remove and inspect more closely (most likely they are blown, just like a light-bulb filament that shows black on the glass)
-- if you see nothing, remove them anyway (since high reading) and check connectors
-- replace them (likely only $30 to $75, depending on type)

- if coils seem ok, or if not suspect, check the defrost thermostat WHILE IT IS STILL IN A WORKING/COLD FREEZER.
- get the defrost thermostat into a coil chamber (other freezer or bucket of ice?) and check resistance using an ohmeter. It must be WELL-BELOW 40F to test it. When it is truly immersed in cold (as it would be in a working freezer), test the resistance. it should be 0-ohms when <<40F and some much higher resistance (>200KOhms) when > 40F.
- if not, replace it

-lastly, if neither the defrost heater elements are bad nor the defrost thermostat is bad, open up the defrost timer
-- the defrost timer is located in the fridge side, likely with the fridge thermostat knobs/controller
-- it is a 5-pin part that cannot be repaired. If all else is checked, most likely the defrost element is never coming on because the timer is not turning it on
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all 8/32 and holes should have been tapped
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allen from Westcliffe, CO
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
had to saw off the shaft to get the yoke off and tap the holes for the 8/32 screws. all holes should have been tapped by the factory. Other than these problems, everything else went pretty good.
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Ice would not come out of try completely due to age and residue buildup
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Easthampton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
After trying to clean and use chemicles to remove residue, I found that it would not work. Ice would build up in tray causing an overflow in the fill process. this would freeze cubes in tray below causing dispenser not to work properly, New tray seemed to solve the problem. Removed old and installed new
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The ice tray would no longer release ice
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Rocky Mount, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just took old ice tray out and put new one right in place in less than 30 seconds. I am very pleased with how fast the tray arrived after being ordered. if only everything ordered could be made this simple. You are a great company to deal with.
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refrigerator was overheating, condensor fan dead.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Granada Hills, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
First I removed all the screws from the back cover.
2nd removed fan nut and fan blade
3rd removed fan bracket
4th I traced wire to the condenser and disconnected wires from wire nuts.
Installed existing fan brackets to new motor kit
then reconnected wire nuts to new motor cord
Reinstalled fan nut and blade ,
reinstalled cover, plugged it in and BAM .WORKS PERF!
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All Instructions for the 2087
46 - 60 of 163