1802 - Instructions

Pulled the fridge out, Took bottom panel off. Removed 3 screws holding motor. Unplugged connector, cut wires, attached old connector on new motor. put blade on new motor.installed in fridge, put cover back on.

opened box,read directions,took out bad motor,installed new one.PRESTO CHANGO way to go.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips ... Read more were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

Pulled refridgerator forward away from the wall. Remove the cardboard back behind the appliance.I saw that the condenser fan motor was not working. Unplugged the appliance from the electrical outlet. Removed a 3 wire plug from the condenser fan motor. Remove 3 screws (with a nut driver) which held the condenser fan motor in place. Remove ... Read more the condenser fan motor from the appliance. Looked up the part needed for repair using the appliance model number. Found which part was applicable for the appliance. Placed the order from Price Select on a Monday morning and recieved the part 2 days later on Wednesday via FedEx. The item shipped was a 2 wire condenser fan motor. Read the instructions that came with the part. Using wire cutters, cut the old 3 wire plug. The center wire is a green and yellow striped wire. Use the same colored wire that is also shipped in the box and has connectors on both ends. Cut one of the connectors off and use the wire strippers to remove plastic wire coating. Connect both ends from the appliance and the green and yellow wire that was shipped. Use a wire nut (also shipped in the box) to connect the wires. You will have 2 black wires left on the new condenser fan motor that need to be connected to the appliance. You should have an orange colored wire and another wire that is black with a white stripe. Connect one wire from the new fan motor to the orange wire and use a wire nut to attach both wires together. Use the other black wire from the new fan motor to the black/white striped wire from the appliance. Use the wire nut to attach both those wires. Place the new condenser fan motor back in the appliance using the screws that come with the motor. Attach the green and white wire with the connector on the end to one of the 3 screws that hold the motor in place and secure the screws. Use the electical tape to hold the wires all together and away from the fan motor. Plug the appliance into the outlet. You can see the condenser fan motor working properly. Note that when connecting the 2 black wires from the new condenser fan motor to the orange and the black/white wire from the appliance, for my appliance, it did not matter which wires were connected as the fan motor was a clockwise motor. Place the cardboard appliance backing, back on to the appliance and push the refridgerator back in place. Allow about 5-6 hours to get the freezer to between 0-5 degrees. The refidgerator should be between 34-38 degrees and will take a little longer to get to that projected temp.

Unscrewed the right control knob. Removed the left temperature control knob (there is no screw holding it), removed one screw to rear of small panel then pried open from the rear of the small panel, there are two plastic tabs in front of the small panel holding it in place. Unscrewed the failed control unit and replaced it with the new on ... Read more e. Replaced the small panel and screw then the left side control knob, making sure of the alignment in the "off" position as the knob has to be pressured into a clamp arrangement on the cold control thermostat. Re-screwed the right knob into place, as well.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world whe ... Read more re my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged th ... Read more e unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I unpluged the refrig, removed the shelves and the back panel on the freezer side of the unit. This exposed the fan motor and fan blade. I removed two screws holding the fan unit in place, unpluged the wires connecting the fan unit to power, and then removed two other screws securing the fan motor to the bracket. I removed the fan mot ... Read more or blade from the old unit and installed it on the new fam motor. I replaced the fan unit into the bracket, pluged the wires back into the fan motor and secured the motor to the refrig. Replaced the back panel and shelves, pluged the refrig into the wall.....easy.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Moved fridge out from wall, unplugged power cord. Laid on floor, removed 6 screws from cover. Removed one threaded bolt to allow assembly to slide out. Removed special nut, and took fan off. Removed 3 motor mounting bolts. Unscrewed 2 wire nuts, and untwisted wires. (option 1, no ground) Vacuumed entire area around motor. Used 3 bo ... Read more lts to mount motor to holder assembly, and special nut to install fan. Stripped wires back about 3/4 inch. Twisted two wires together CW, and installed new wire nuts. Slid motor assembly back into slot,(keep wires away from blades) and used one threaded bolt to secure assembly. Reinstalled cover plate with 6 screws. Plugged power cord in to test air flow (out through cover vents). Moved fridge back into place. The loud whirring noise did not stop for a day; then quiet!