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1559 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1559
121 - 135 of 296

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Oven would not heat up
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • MICHAEL from MORROW, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.
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Old burner bowl needed to be replaced
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • bonnie from N KINGSTOWN, RI
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took out the old & put in the new one-Done!
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Not Reaching Temperature above 300 Degrees
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from SAN TAN VLY, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.
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control switch had stopped working, burner wouldn't work properly
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Ruth from JACKSON, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
took out a couple of screws and replaced with new switch, plugged in switch wires. very easy
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The ceramic contact housing for the burner had melted, and the back large burner started to burn.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Chelsea, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.
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Two blocks kept shorting out.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Evelyn from FRANKLIN, NH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son h ad spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
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ONE OF SURFACE BURNER NOT WORKING
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • QUANG from LANCASTER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER EN DS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
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Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from MECHANIC FLS, ME
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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The bottome heater element of my oven burned out.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from ALOHA, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I used pliers to remove the hex bolts from the old burner element and pulled out the terminals by hand. I ordered my part and was slightly concerned because the part number was different (this due to my oven being so old I guess). After reading another repair story on this site, when I got my new part, I turned off the electricity to th e range at the fuse box vs. unplugging the oven from the wall - because if I had pulled out the oven to access the plug, I would have had to re-caulk along the edges where it connects with my counter tops. I then slid the terminals into the female parts; this was a bit tricky because the female parts had receded behind the insulation in the hole in the back of the oven where they are located. I used small needle-nosed pliers to grab them and pull them forward enough to slide the new terminals in (by hand). I then put in the old hex bolts and used the pliers to tighten them. Flipped the fuse box switch and tried it out - worked great!
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The element broke in 2....
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jannis from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!
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burner terminal block was worn out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mario from RENO, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the b urner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
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Oven Wouldnt Bake Food Very Well It Took To Long To Bake
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SUZANNE from DAVID CITY, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I found the model number, but it's parts were under a different number. So I ordered what I thought was the right oven element, but it wasnt right . My husband couldnt get it to fit . Well he finaly found the right part number so we could order the right part. We returned the wrong part and got the right element. It went in per fectly and the oven is working just fine now. Remember to always look up the part number you need and then order it.
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Burnt Terminal Block
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bayani P. from DALY CITY, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug the range before opening the back panel and removed the wiring connection and replaced with the new one
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Surface element switch failed
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William W. from Seattle, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Top front sloping sheet metal panel with all controls and plastic end caps has to come off. Need 2 people, one to hold it while other replaces switch. Problem was getting screw holes on bottom ends lined up and cuts from sheet metal edges. Ten minutes to get it apart, 40 to get it back together. New switch works fine.
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All Instructions for the 1559
121 - 135 of 296