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1545 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1545
121 - 135 of 338

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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The light inside the oven had burned out
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. ... Read more />3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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Element blew hole in self then no power to burner.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin from Portland, TN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.
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Could not adjust heat on burner.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Au Gres, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.
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My burner trays were worn out and I needed new ones
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary Jane from La Junta, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I simply pulled the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It looks so much better and cleanes up well.
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The ceramic contact housing for the burner had melted, and the back large burner started to burn.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Chelsea, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I verified the parts that were sent to me to make sure they were what I needed. I read the instructions for the replacement of the new parts. I then moved the stove out away from the wall to access the back plate where the burner connections are located. I removed the cover plate to expose the connections. I then traced out the wires from the burner that needed to be replaced to the connections on the back panel. I disconnected the appropriate wires and tied them off on both ends because it was difficult to try and weave the old wires out and the new wires through the original channel they were running through. I removed the damaged ceramic housing and installed the new ceramic housing along with the new large burner ring. I then routed the new wires through the stove to the back connection panel and plugged them into the same positions as the old wires occupied. I then wrapped up the excess cable and tied it off and stored it inside the rear panel per the instructions. I tie wrapped the new cable along the route of the existing channel of wires from the front to the rear and then replced the back panel and secured it with the screws. I pushed the stove back to it's original position. I then tuned on the rear burner to see if was working properly, and it heated up fine.
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Two blocks kept shorting out.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Evelyn from FRANKLIN, NH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son h ad spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
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Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from MECHANIC FLS, ME
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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The element broke in 2....
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • jannis from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!
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burner terminal block was worn out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mario from RENO, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the b urner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
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ONE OF SURFACE BURNER NOT WORKING
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • QUANG from LANCASTER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER EN DS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
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on off switch smoked and smelled hot
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • john from MILROY, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
standard procedure, very simple
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would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from SARASOTA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Did the repair just like the video shows.
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Burner socket disintegrated...2nd time.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Streeter from Millersville, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.

This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.

Tha nks for having the part available.
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Fix prior jimmy-rigged repair job
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Charleston, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replac e with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
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All Instructions for the 1545
121 - 135 of 338