This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit...Read more includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts and screws in order to hold items firmly together. This piece is a fastener that attaches one item to another. This part has several advantage...Read mores, the main one being that it is universal and can be used with most pieces and appliances in your home. This hex nut is an original equipment manufacturer part, meaning it is directly sourced from the manufacturer.
This is a five-loop broil element for an oven, range, or stove. It is approximately 11-3/4 inches wide and 18-5/8 inches long with approximately 11-3/4 inches between terminal connections. It features a.25-inch male terminal push-in connection for easy replacement and a hanger style mount. It is 3000/2500 watts and 240/208 volts. This bro...Read moreil element is located on the inner upper wall of your oven. Be sure your element wires do not fall through the wall of your oven when you uninstall the existing part. The wires are short and will make your repair more difficult because they are difficult to retrieve.
This dryer blower belt is designed to connect the motor to the blower wheel in compatible Whirlpool dryers, enabling proper air circulation during the drying cycle. Manufactured to OEM specifications, it ensures efficient airflow, consistent heat distribution, and optimal drying performance. A worn or broken belt can lead to symptoms such...Read more as extended drying times, lack of heat, or unusual noise. Constructed from durable, high-quality materials, this replacement part offers a secure fit and long-lasting reliability. Installation should be performed with the appliance disconnected from power, and model compatibility must be verified before replacement.
This replacement ignitor assembly is a genuine Broil-Mate part. It is specially sourced from original equipment manufacturer for use with gas grills. Igniter makes ignition process simple and safe by producing the spark to ignite the burner with only a push of a button. It has a plastic body and it is sold individually. Please note, it do...Read morees require a "AAA" battery which is sold separately. Replacing this ignitor is an easy task that does not require any tools. • Unplug the wires from the old ignition module • Unscrew the button that holds it to the unit • Place a new module in place • Install a "AAA" battery and secure the module with the button • Re-connect the wires
This is an authentic Weber replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with natural gas grills. The brass coupler is used to connect the fuel hose to the natural gas supply. This quick disconnect is sold as an individual replacement part, tools may not be needed to install this item.
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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
31 of 47 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
Easy
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams.
... Read moreTime on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Glen from Plano, TX
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back. Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch. removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine. Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed
... Read moreit on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
18 of 24 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Mandie from Lewisville, NC
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The swit
... Read morech was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)