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12661-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 12661-1
1 - 15 of 40

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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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Heating element burned out.
41 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LANCE from ORELAND, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
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Left rear element would not get hot.
19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Hopewell Junction, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it in to the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
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The gasket needed to be replaced in top oven, it was brittle and broken.
19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JoAnn from Auburn, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove enti re oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.
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Oven Gasket Worn and Brittle
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Yakima, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.
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Gasket around rim of oven broke while cleaning
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dorothy from Santa Rosa, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.
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The small burner inside the double burner shortd out.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from PORT ORANGE, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years
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Small front burner on our glass top stove died.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from FLEMING ISLE, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Robert did not do the repairs. I did! 70 year old housewife. I watched a Utube video and thought I could certainly handle that. Ordered my part from your site. It came in two days. Burnet was replaced in under 20 minutes by me! Anyone can do this. Super easy, parts just plug in.
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bottom trim had rusted, so we needed new piece
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robin from Apple Valley, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked op en!)
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Bottom trim piece on 24 year old stove had rusted. Replace trim piece was still available.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from FAYETTEVILLE, NY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.
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Replace door gasket on very old wall oven
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • r from SUNNYVALE, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to red uce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.
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Part rusted over time...22 years.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeannene from HUNTINGTON, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.
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replaced broken oven door handle
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from BOCA RATON, FL
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.
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No Instructions
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!
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All Instructions for the 12661-1
1 - 15 of 40