1265 - Instructions

Removed the screws that held the element and disconnected it. Placed the new element in the proper place, connected the wiring, and replaced all the screws. The unit worked beautifully, and all is well. My wife is happy.

Fortunately, we had read the instructions on line, because none were included with the part. Still, it was REALLY easy. We unscrewed the two screws, pulled the element away from the back wall and pulled the wires off the contacts at the back. (That was the hardest part, because they were stuck-on well. WD-40 was helpful here.) The on ... Read more e piece of paper that did arrive with the part told us the ground wire was no longer necessary if you use the new screws that came with the part, so we ended up cutting the ground wire off. We then put the other wires back on the new contacts, pushed it back into place, and re-screwed it to the back wall. We have used the oven several times since, and it's all working well.

I removed the two screws holding the element in place and disconnected the two wire terminals.
I then reversed the above steps to insatll the new element. SUPER EASY!!

no instructions on how to replace element. first i removed the 2 screws that held the element to the oven. then i pulled the element out with the wires attached. at first i couldn't tell how the wires were attached - i thought they may have been soldered on. it took awhile for me to figure it out the wires were attached to a part that ... Read more pulls up off the element part. no solder was needed. after i figured that out, easy to pull the part up off the element part.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one ... Read more on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw d ... Read more river is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.

removed 10 screws on the outer door assembly, removed front glass/door panel. Continue to remove glass protector, the frame that holds the glass. Remove the layer that protects insulation and surrounds glass. Remove glass assembley, replace with new kit. Replace everything back in order. Replace door on oven. Inner screws were phil ... Read more lips head, the screws on the door were hex.

I drilled two holes on the plate and I did use same original screws.

I just wanted to say once it was installed, It worked great.

Thank you,

Sam

I removed the screws holding the bezel, removed the control panel frame, unhooked the four wires from the timer, and removed the timer. I cut the glue holding the circuit board into the frame and removed the circuit board. I unsoldered the faulty encoder switch, dissassembled the switch, determined the correct specifications for the swit ... Read more ch, and ordered the nearest equivalent from an electronics supplier. I modified the new encoder to accept the shaft from the old encoder and I re-drilled the circuit board to fit the new encoder. I then soldered and wired the encoder, reversing the wires to correct the direction of rotation. I then reinstalled everything and added the knob purchased from partselect.com. Now it works. Tough repair - not for the faint of heart or those of average skill. But for the record, installing the knob was of course child's play and took only a moment.

I removed the two screws that held in the old part. I pulled the element out a few inches.I disconnected two wires from the old element and connected it to the new. Using the screws provided I reconnected the unit. All went well. No need for repairman. 1

Easily disconnected the wires and removed cracked element and replaced with new one

I installed the new racks

Shut off electricity to oven. Remove existing screws attaching element to back wall of oven. Use pliers to pull off wire connectors. To install the new element, reverse these steps. It's that simple.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.