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11082406830 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Had issues with removing the inner tub
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Bruce from Yankton, SD
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!
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dryer wouldn't start
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sean from easthampton, MA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. al
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most spent $400.00 on a new one.
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Missing lid hinge bearing
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Kim from Oviedo, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid an
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d into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.
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Stopped and would not restart / start.
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Patricia from Duck, WV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed
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the previous procedures to complete repair.
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Dryer door switch broken or burned out
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James from Iota, LA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.
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Bad water valve
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James from Lewisville, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks
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Door popped open when operating
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John from Benicia, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Both the latch on the door and the strike plate were replaced. A technician from Parts-Select came and leveling and removal of possible obstructions were done. It looked like it might stay closed but popped open with temperature additions during the wash cycle. The door seals had been replaced and probably were putting some additional pr
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essure on the door. I inserted the "magic bullet" --- (a screw) in above the strike plate and that solved the problem---door stays shut. As a side note, the screw originally used was inserted in an electrical wire plastic connector and inserted but it appears that shutting the door too hard caused it to pop into the cavity behind the latch (not into the washer itself). So I used a plastic sheet rock anchor with large spiral threads which was a larger diameter than the strike-plate slot and therefore when the door was shut hard there was no way that it could be dislodged. It was a smaller size anchor in order to not put excessive pressure on the stike-plate. Since the plastic anchor had a phillips head slot I did not have to use a metal screw to get the anchor in.
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over fill water
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ronnie from meriden, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
replace the water valve
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Washer leaking
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Forrest from Oxford, AL
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this.
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Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.
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