EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

1106507830 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1106507830
46 - 60 of 486

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
No Heat
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICHOLAS from PARMA, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (i t should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The wiring on the new motor is not compatible with older motor (ours is over 30 years old) so we had to clip off old connectors and wire on new ones. There was only one motor clamp (should have read description more closely). The new one was difficult to put on. This would only be a one hour job if
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CG from DEMING, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Numbet one - unplugged the dryer. Then disassembled dryer (front panel, loosened vent from top panel and removed drum). Removed motor after carefully documenting wires and their corresponding numbers, along with pictures. Read directions several times to assure we understood process. Followed instructions for replacing connectors. Used pliers and screwdriver to install motor clips. This took numerous, patient attempts. We also had to partially remove the vent in order to reinstall the motor. Then replaced drum, front cover, reattached vent to top cover. Reattached outside vent hose. Plugged dryer in and tested it. Motor replacement worked fine and fixed the problem (squealing).
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer hummed but drum wouldn't turn unless helped.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Ellicott City, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Solution: electric motor replacement as the integral centrifugal switch lever (plastic cam) wears over time causing the start windings' switch poor contact. Took it all apart, (back panel, front and top) including lifting the drum out to completely expose the motor. Needed to wrench the plastic fan from the inside motor shaft. Tricky part was swapping the original pulley (6 rib belt, still good) for the one supplied for 4 rib belts. I needed to file another flat onto the other side of both motor shafts (old and new) to break them free, using a vice to secure the pulleys. The dryer works perfectly! It's a great dryer that can be repaired by a determined novice. The enclosed instructions were helpful, although if followed about cutting the original motor shaft to obtain its pulley might require drilling the shaft from the pulley = nonsense. Thanks again Parts Select.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No heat
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from La Palma, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The Door Switch Actuator Spring had broken
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norman from Allen, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I took the dryer apart by visually looking at it and removing screws, etc. until I had the top off and the front off. I took the dryer apart so I could get the part out and use it visually ascertain I was ordering the same part.

I bought the replacement part and only then did I have the instructions to take the dryer apart. I t was further apart than the instructions said. I had to take the front off to retrieve the broken part which had fallen inside the front of the dryer.

I put the front back on the dryer and installed the new part, which, fortunately could only be installed one way. Once I had the two screws tightened into the part, the remainder was to simply follow the instructions that came from your web site and put the link filter and top of the dryer back on. Of course, I plugged in the dryer and checked to see that it ran before completing this.

I am amazed that I was able to find this part for a 30 year old dryer. The part hasn't changed at all. I guess, if you have a good part, there's no need to modify it.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The dryer door latch broke
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Topeka, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
My Kenmore dryer door catch was worn out, so the dryer door wouldn't stay closed, and I was unable to dry my laundry.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Golden Valley, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
the glow ignitor would not cycle on
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgio from Oradell, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Door springs and cables were broke, and the door catch was broke.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from ONAMIA, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Removed screws by lint trap, used putty knife to pry top of dryer apart, use nut driver for two bolts that hold the front panel of dryer on, replaced parts, put it back together.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
no heat was being produced
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer made a terrible squealing noise
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Will from Charlotte, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.

Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Lint Filter Was Broken
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • VICTOR from FREEHOLD, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Installed new lint filter
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer wouldn't run
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Richlands, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Extremely easy repair! Unplug the dryer. Remove the lint trap screen. Take the two screws out of the lint trap chute, pry up the top of the dryer, insert wood or have someone hold top up, remove two screws holding the switch in place while holding the switch so the old spring doesn't fall. Remove old spring and replace with new one. Re-attach switch to dryer with two screws. Plug in and test run. Lower top and push firmly to engages clips. Re-install two scres in lint trap chute followed by the lint trap screen and you are finished!

Repair took about five minutes and saved approximately $70!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
No Heat
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from Bixby, OK
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I de cided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer got hot then heat would shut off
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from Fernley, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and r everse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 1106507830
46 - 60 of 486