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11063014101 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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dryer had no heat
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
gary from newcomerstown, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggrava
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tion!!! AWESOME!!!!
Gary
Gary
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Dryer would start and then stop after a few minutes, eventually it completely stopped.
11 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Keith L. from San Diego, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
After determining that the dryer motor was the issue, I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com website.
I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.
The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.
I disassembled the dryer, ... Read more removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.
Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.
I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.
I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.
I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.
The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.
I disassembled the dryer, ... Read more removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.
Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.
I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.
I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.
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The dryer burner wouldn't fire
9 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from Purcellville, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Checked online for symptoms.
Pulled panel from front of unit (no tools required)
Vacuumed all lint from unit to see if that was a problem.
Removed the exhaust port which comes off with 3 hex head screws.
Based on the symptoms, I pulled the wires off the thermal fuse and did a continuity check on it. There was n ... Read more o continuity, so I knew I needed that part. Since a common reason for that to fail is the cycling thermostat allows the dryer to get too hot, I replaced that thermostat as well, just to be safe.
Due to closeness to the drum, I had to use a socket to remove the hex head screws on the two electronic parts.
Total time was about 40 mins. to diagnose and 20 mins. to replace the parts and verify correct operation.
Pulled panel from front of unit (no tools required)
Vacuumed all lint from unit to see if that was a problem.
Removed the exhaust port which comes off with 3 hex head screws.
Based on the symptoms, I pulled the wires off the thermal fuse and did a continuity check on it. There was n ... Read more o continuity, so I knew I needed that part. Since a common reason for that to fail is the cycling thermostat allows the dryer to get too hot, I replaced that thermostat as well, just to be safe.
Due to closeness to the drum, I had to use a socket to remove the hex head screws on the two electronic parts.
Total time was about 40 mins. to diagnose and 20 mins. to replace the parts and verify correct operation.
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Broken Belt
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ken from LOMBARD, IL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent
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Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ricardo from ARBUCKLE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum
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, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
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Rear seal was damaged and started falling apart.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from HUDSON, ME
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had loud squealing prior knew rollers was going. Ordered repair kit that contained new belt , idle pully, and rollers. Knowing I had previously mended the door switch ordered a new to replace it. Unplugged and removed the dryer. Removed front lower panel, then the top and took the screws that held the front panel and door switch. Then
... Read more
I took the belt off and removed the drum. Removed the rear felt and cleaned the drum with fine mesh steel wool applied adehesive waited 5 mins and attached new felt. Then went to work cleaning the inside of the dryer with an air compressor. Rollers were next, poped the retainers and slide old ones off whiped the studs with a rag and put new ones on. Did the same with the belt tensioner pulley that came with the kit. Installed the new door switch and reassembled the dryer. Works great again, quiet etc. Easy fix and glad I ordered the kit.
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Dryer stopped heating
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Austin, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple t
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o get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
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Dryer not Heating
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brigitte from Westerville, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Was not sure what was wrong but the Part Select site allowed us to view other repair issues and solutions. We ordered the kit, it arrived the next day (how is that possible) and easily put the parts in and chaching...money saved and dryer works better than ever. THANKS PartSelect, we give you an eleven and we will recommend you to everyon
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e.
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Drive pulley broke. Looked like clip holding it on broke and pulley was running crooked.Belt was squealing some a couple of weeks before it broke.
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Sheffield, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.
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Broken Motor Pulley
7 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from PELHAM, MA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge woul
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d be thru the roof.
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The belt you sent was too short
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from Middlebury, IN
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too s
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hort belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.
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Noisy
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retain
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er clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
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Lint filter seal worn out
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
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Old lint filter was broken
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Earl from Santa Ana, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Just replaced the old lint filter.
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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Edgartown, MA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell
... Read more
inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
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