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11051 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11051
31 - 45 of 101

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Noise, grinding
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from MURFREESBORO, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!
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Washer stuck on sensing
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rosemarie from LAS CRUCES, NM
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I have a Kenmore he 500 series washer that would not get out of the sensing mode. Googled the problem. It let me know it could be the water inlet valve. So I ordered the valve through Part select (mailed to me with in days of ordering) Had a towel and small bowl for nuts and screws. Shut off water to washer, disconnected hoses, used screw driver and socket wrench to unscrew the back of washer (since it was my first time to ever do something like this on my own, I took pictures to make sure everything went back in place) replaced valve. It was an easy connection. Washer works great
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wanting to see this new energy efficient washer work, with the lid open
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from KEYSTONE, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, a nd fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
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heavy loads did not spin dry properly
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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washer not filling with enough water
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from LAS VEGAS, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
see you tube on how too
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When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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Loose pulley
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from BAKER, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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Washer won’t go into spin cycle! Tries too but then stops
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dawn from TOWANDA, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced the drive belt and shift actuator but that did not fix the problem! So I ordered a transmission and this still did not fix it! I give up! Time to get a new washer!
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Non agitation
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from BROOKLYN CTR, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench set
It was so simple. The staff person recommended that I just YouTube it and recommended other options. As I said it was simple,
Everything I needed was in the box.
I removed the new part from the box.
I used the equipment needed to remove the top of the Agitator's bolt.
Removed the old part, clean the inside area. ... Read more >Installed the new part which took some hard pushing down onto center piece and replaced the bolt in the casing.
Placed the top back on and done.
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replace water inlet value
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norbert from PITTSBURGH, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
had to change out wiring harness was not compatible
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The Washer acted like the lid would not latch and stopped it from cycling.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from BELLEVUE, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!
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Washer wasn't agitating.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darryl from Danville, PA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First, this is the second time the transmission actuator went bad. The first-time washer was still under warrenty and I watched the tech replace it. This time warranty has expired and I'm mechanically inclined, so I ordered the part. Replacing was easy, unplug, tip washer up so you can get under it, remove plastic guard (two hex nuts) and remove actuator by removing two screws. Reverse procedure to install new actuator. The only caution I will say is when tipping washer if you have a wall to lean it against, perfect, just put something under it for saftey so it can't fall on you.
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Cold water was not working
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from HOUMA, LA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much
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OEM water valve was allowing water to drip into the drum with no power to the valve.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from STILWELL, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in re verse and it worked perfectly!!
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The washer would not wash or spin.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from ROCKY FORD, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.
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All Instructions for the 11051
31 - 45 of 101