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11050 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11050
76 - 90 of 1536

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Although the motor was running, washer wouldn't agitate or spin.
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Commack, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched betwee n the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.
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Lid safety switch defective . Lid would not lock allowing washer operation.
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Garry from CANON CITY, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove small screws on back of top on both sides, slide top forward. No need to remove water hoses. Lift top up to expose switch safety mechanism (black plastic) on front underside of top. Undo screws holding switch mechanism. remove plate cover from back of top and unplug wiring harness. Thread new wireing harness and plug through hole in top and plug in to plug receptor.
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washer did not agitate
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Jacksonville, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
popped thecap off removed the bolt, pulled agitator off replaced cogs(dogs) then put back together. works like new.whole time took about 10-15 min. saved my self 150.00 by not hireing repair man.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Drum was binding because of worn bearing supporting front of dryer drum
23 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Townsend, GA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer for safety, then I removed the top of the dryer, then removed the 2 hex head screws holding the font door panel onto the dryer. Then I disconnected the door safety switch. the rest was cake. I removed the old bearing and cut the new bearing and seal to the exact size of the old one. I used contact cement to gl ue the new bearing and seal into place. Reassembly was a breeze. End of job. Success!!!
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Temperature setting not working
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Buffalo, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
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washer wouldn't start up after filling & closing lid
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeremy from Marengo, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I loosened the 2 screws on the outside of the top control assembly with a philips screwdriver. Then I took out the 2 other screws toward the top on the back with a socketwrench.Next I removed the top so I could access the switch. After that I removed the broken switch and unhooked from wire hareness. I then hooked up the new switch and snapped into place. Last I put the top back on and screwed into place.
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The Dryer would not start
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Redondo Beach, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First and most important was to unplug the unit.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the lint screen shoot to the top cover and then simply popped the top of the machine open using 2 screw drivers and
gently prying it up. I raised the top cover about 8 inches and supported it with a block of wood.
I opened the front loading do or and removed the 2 screws that hold the door actuator switch while holding the switch on the inside so that nothing would fall down into no mans land. Once the switch was loose I pulled it into view and could see that the actuator spring was broken. I used the search at the Part Select Web site and found the placement part very easy. I was amazed that the part was shipped and delivered to my house the very next day. The actuator spring simply snaps into place and I assembled it in the reverse order of removal, I removed the block of wood and snapped the top back into location and reinstalled the 2 screws for the lint screen shoot . I plugged the dryer in and it work perfect. I can't say enough about how well the experiance with Parts Select went, I will recommend them to others.
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Top Half of Agitator would not function without appying sideways pressure
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Fredericksburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remo ve black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...
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Agitator was barely agitating. Making a clicking noise.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charmaine from Slidell, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.
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Would not spin
24 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • floyd from Slidell, LA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.
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The washer did not spin fast enough during the rinse cycle to adequately dry the load of clothes
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from EL SEGUNDO, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Socket set
I repaired my Kenmore washing machine replacing the clutch, Motor coupling and cogs. All of the parts came quickly and with good instructions. Best of all there were links to youtube repair walkthroughs. With out these step by step instructions this project would have taken much longer. Now the washer is like new! WATCH THE YOUTUBE PAUSE DO THE STEP AND REPEAT
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Making loud noises.
20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you
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Top section of agitator not turning
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Stone Mountain, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Found directional gogs broken. Searched washer model # on PS.com and easily found schematic drawing. Received parts in a couple of days. Removed agitator with one nut, and other parts just pulled apart. Replaced the cogs and other parts which were not really broken....just worn. Everything went back together easily, and I was done! Parts Select saved me a LOT of time, and especially money, than if I had called a repair co. THANKS!
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My washer lid lock light kept blinking and the washer would not start
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janice from GREENVILLE, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the online video, removed the old part and replaced it with the new part. My washer is working perfectly. It took about an hour to reset.
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All Instructions for the 11050
76 - 90 of 1536