11026012012 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Replaced 1 of 4 of the suspension bushing. Works great.

ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned ... Read more it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install ... Read more and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get ... Read more the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.

I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)

So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).

The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Pulled the agitator, un-screwed the drive hub, cleaned the splines on the transmission, vacuumed the debris out of the tub. The repair video said to put towels or something down in the tub so if you drop a screw it will catch it. Put it back together and re-calibrated it. It didn't want to go into the calibrate mode until i moved the mode ... Read more switch all the way to the left and then right first. Good quality factory parts!

Force the thin nylon strap around and down into the perimeter of the agitator. Draw it snug to the center. The strap must be long enough to make a complete loop up to the top of the tub. Insert a fairly stout wooden stick through the loop so that an upward prying motion of the stick applies a vertical force on the agitator. While the ... Read more force is applied pound on the lower part of the agitator so that it will break it free from the motor's axel. Of course remove the center bolt first after removing the small hub cover.
Applying liquids to the connection did not help. Just a steady upward force and a few rubber hammer blows to the lower part of the agitator di the trick.

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound ... Read more of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no ... Read more tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

I watched a video on you tube before making the repair, there was only one bad rod support, location right rear, I recommend watching a video on you tube first, it is very simple to change, however the replacement of the part was not the solution to the unbalanced load during the spin cycle, so I guess I have some research to do.

I watched the repair video on Partselect, it was very informative. In the video the agitator lifted right out easily, I was not so lucky. It took me and another gentleman about 4 hours to get the thing out. I watched other videos on ideas to remove, still no luck. Finally I cut the strap off of a carry all bag and was able to get it in a ... Read more round the agitator and slide it under it. After getting it under the agitator we were able to pull up on it and get it loose.
The rest of the repair was simple, cleaned everything, installed new part, and now washing machine is working like new again.

Replaced the suspension rods.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline groo ... Read more ves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt

Per your directions. Note that part has been updated from original. Looks like an improvement, adds tab to grab rod, but changes installation.