11022082102 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

1) Pull the washer away from the wall
2) Lean the washer back so it is balanced and you can see the bottom
3) Remove 3 screws along the front edge of bottom plate
4)Remove plate, exposing the pump
5)Remove 2 clips that hold pump to motor
6)Place the deepest pan you can fit under pump
7)Loosen hose clamp, pull ... Read more hose SLOWLY from pump
8)Drain as carefully as possible (its a couple /few gallons)
9)Remove second hose clamp, set pump aside
10)Remove three bolts holding in motor
11)Remove small plastic anchor that goes through frame
12)Follow wires to plastic plug. It is easier to remove the closer to you, then push remaining side of the plug through the mount.
13) Reverse the steps, the new pump motor will go in as one unit because of the torque screws(no clips).

Note: I tried to save the old motor because I could see the clog inside of it. After freeing it up, I re-assembled it ,ran the washer and got the FL code again, So I had to remove it again and replace it with the new one. Now it has been through about
10 loads and is working well.

Removed old, pressed on new. This is no story but the reason I am writing is to say how impressed I was with the ease of using your Web site to find my part and of your spectacularly fast service.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Unplugged washer from AC. Tipped washer back at about 30degrees and stabilized it (only part of job that was concerning). Removed bottom panel by removing 3 Hex Head Sheet metal screws. Disconnected white and black hoses from pump. Removed three Hex Head Machine bolts holding pump in place. Reached in and disconnected electrical conne ... Read more ctor.

Installation was the reverse.

Pump failed because capacitor failed (this was a replacement pump that was about 3 years old--first pump failed when plastic drive broke. Replacement is now metal.

This washer should have been designed with some filtration of the recirculating water, but was not (even though the literature indicates recirculating water is filtered.

Ordered the part, received part in short time and snapped it on in less than a minute. Seals better than original.
Thanks PartSelect. I will be back.

I turned the washer on its side and vacuumed up water off of floor. Then I removed the bottom access panel via 3 screws. Pump and motor were separate pieces and easy to remove by hose clamps, and screws & wiring connector respectively. Replacement pump and motor was one piece that was relatively easy to install in reverse order.

1. Laid the machine on it's front.
2. Took off the bottom panel.
3. Unclipped the drain hose clamps & removed the hoses.
4. Removed the old motor/pump assembly.
5. Installed the new motor/pump assembly.
6. Re-installed the drain hoses & clamps.
7. Re-attached the bottom panel.
8. Ran the diagnostics test ... Read more - everything worked!

Slid off the old and slid on the new part. Actually my wife did it with no help and was rather pleased with her self on not needing any help except ordering it.

Slid the replacement on the lid and it worked like a charm - no more vibration.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Too simple. The old one practicaly fell off and all I had to do was push the new one into place. It locked itself in and was ready to use.

No more rattling or noise when it runs now.

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

Read from others what they did, decided I could do it also. First moved the washer to an area I could work in and tipped it on its back to get to the bottom. (lots of water here, be prepared to mop, soak up with plenty of towels) I had pumped as much water as I could see out. Took the bottom panel off, looked for the part that matched ... Read more the part I ordered and unscrewed it, unplugged the wiring, removed it and put the new one in, screwed it in place, plugged the wiring together (it snaps) and replaced the bottom cover, tipped it back up and put it back in place. Tested it and it worked!! YEAH

I removed the bottom metal plate of the washer and tipped it onto its front. I removed three screws holding the pump onto the washer frame. There was an electrical plug that was difficult to unplug because I couldn't see how it was being held into place. That took the most time. Eventually I figured out that I needed to squeeze the o ... Read more utside of the plastic together to release the plug. Once I had that unplugged, the new pump was on in about 10 minutes. Very easy to do. I did it without my husband's help!!! Saved a repair man's fee. Everything works fine.

Diagnosing the problem was somewhat easy as I noticed that one of the 2 steel clips that holds the pump to the motor had broken and was lying on the lower panel. I removed the pump and hoses and cleaned all of them thoroughly with clean water. I reconnected the pump with a "rigged" connector that lasted a couple of months before the pum ... Read more p's teeth were probably ground down and would not grab the motor's shaft - the pump is plastic.

Given the machine was out of warranty and reading about the class-action suit against Whirlpool on this particular model I thought maybe it was cheaper to buy a new one - NOT. Knowing which part was at fault I researched online for spare parts and discovered PartSelect.com. Their web interface of the parts diagram made it very easy to locate the exact part to order and I had it shipped next day. I received the part I ordered and spent 45-60 minutes removing the old motor and pump (2 pieces) and replacing it with the new one which is now one assembly. The only tricky part was removing and replaing the wire harness and connector. The washer has been working now for about a month with no problems and in fact the new motor and pump are much more quiet compared to the old one.

Something worth while to perform while repairing the washer is to detach the hoses and flush out the lint and other "crud" in the lower box that controls the flow of water with 2 ball floats. I read somewhere that the lint may prevent the float balls from closing the chamber and thereby removing the water in the basket leading to the "OB" error on the spin cycle. I simply took a garden hose with a sprayer attached and pushed out the lint and other junk with the high pressure (I did this inside the house - a little messy)

I will use PartSelect again the next time my wife yells something is broken.

Thank you PartSelect.com (Can't say enough about the part diagrams interface!)
Scott
Houston, TX.