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11020052993 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11020052993
46 - 60 of 1190

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Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.
22 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kim from West Liberty, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and starte d stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).
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washing machine not draining
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from princeton, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.
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Tub banged against the front of case during spin
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from Boca Raton, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.
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Washer tub off balance and noisy
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Kent, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverag e with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
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agitator auger not turning
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Meredith from Temple, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
remove softener dispenser assy,remove barrier cap & o ring remove auger assy retainer,remove cam assy from auger, assemble new cam assy and reverse disassembly order. less than 5 minutes.
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there was a hole in the original drain hose
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kathy from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
First, I read the previous repair stories, so I knew what step to do first. So, first I took the hose off of the drain, then I removed it from the washer. And as the previous repair story stated, some water came out and I had a towel ready to catch the water that was in the hose. I threaded the clamp onto the new hose, pushed the new ho se onto the washer, used the pliers to open the clamp to better clamp the hose onto the washer. Then, placed the drain hose into the drain pipe and it was done! Thanks for such a great site!
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Direct drive pump was leaking
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from DENTON, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched the video from the web site, decided that pulling the whole case was more work than needed. I tipped the washer back at about 45 degrees so that I could get under it and braced it so that it would not fall back fwd. Put a medium cooking bowl under the pump, used a channel locks to remove the 2 spring clamps that where around the hoses and slide the hoses off and let the water drain into the bowl. Then used a medium straight slot screw driver to release the clips from each side of the pump and slid the pump off the shaft. If you turn the clips 90 degrees they will slip out and had to remove the upper clip to get the pump out. Lined up the pump and the shaft making sure that the flat side of shaft and pump lined up and slid it on. Reinstalled the pump clips and slid the hoses back on the pump slide the clamps back in place lowered the washer and test ran it for leaks. Great Job NO leaks. Whole job took me less than 30 minutes.
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Leaking water from bottom after wash
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Wildomar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Turn washer on its side unscrewed clamps used pliers to slide clamps off of two hoses connected to pump then took clips off that hold pump replaced with new pump and put new clips connected hoses and clamps on new pump turned it back upright job finished
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Severe wobble during spin cycle.
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Dallas, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
After removing the 2 phillips screws at the base of the control panel, I flipped the panel toward the back. Using a screwdriver, I popped off the spring clips, releasing the cabinet. I removed the 1/4" hex head screw on the spring mount and removed the old spring and replaced with the new. I repeated this with the other 2 springs. The spr ing bracket in the rear also holds the tub balancing spring. It is easily replaced while replacing the suspension spring.
If this didn't fix the problem, we were going shopping for a new washer. After this repair, it operates like new!
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Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Woodland Hills, UT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.
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Out of balance on spin cycle
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from LATROBE, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Followed the videos on the website. But had to order parts twice because it wasn't the springs it was the plastic bushings the tub sits on that caused the wobble. No big deal though. All told it was still far less expansive than a new machine.
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banging noise during spin cycle, tub out of balance
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from CHARLTON CITY, MA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.
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noisy
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • clinton from selah, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
just like video showed really helpfull
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Spider coupling between motor and transmission broken
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Friendswood, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy rep air.
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No agitation, No spin, pump OK
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Midlothian, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.
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All Instructions for the 11020052993
46 - 60 of 1190