11020052991 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.

Followed the video posted on the website. Everything went great - first repair attempt took about 45 minutes. Time consumed mostly due to the straps that hold the motor in place being very difficult to put back on and that the cabinet was a little difficult to replace due to the amount of rust around the bottom of it. Tried out the washer ... Read more when done, and noticed a burning rubber smell. Took everything apart again, checked it, and everything seemed to be ok (made sure all four rubber feet were in place on the motor) so put it all back together again. Noticed the smell again so took it apart a third time, and when the motor felt pretty warm, decided to do an internet search for "burning rubber smell after replacing drive motor coupling." The answer popped right up - the replacement parts were not solid plastic like the original ones- they had metal on the inside of them, and needed to be tapped, a bit forcefully, with a hammer and socket until flush on the both the motor and transmission axles. Once the parts were flush, the straps that hold the motor in place snapped right on. Still a challenge with the rusted cabinet, but once all together again, worked perfect! Thanks to this site , I have fixed washers, dryers, and refrigerators and used them now nearly 20 years! I showed my daughter and granddaughter how to repair them and they don't hesitate to pitch in and help or handle the repairs on their own - again with much appreciation to this sitefor the accurate "how to" videos, the right parts, fast shipping, and great prices.

Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part wa ... Read more s not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

I followed the online instructions and found it remarkably easy. I saved a lot of money and will certainly use PartSelect in the future! Washer works like new again!

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off t ... Read more he washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not ... Read more perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

I loosened two screws which held the knob panel in place. I undid the two clips holding the cabinet and removed it. The pump has two clips holding it on, I removed those and the pump came free. Taking advice from these forums, I did not remove the hoses attached. I disconnected the wiring harnesses from the motor. The motor has 2 clips al ... Read more so, these being held on with screws. I removed the screws and the clips. THE MOTOR IS HEAVY.
You will see the coupling on the "spindle" of the motor. In my case, both plastic pieces were cracked in 2 places. I removed the old coupling and cleaned the "spindles" and lightly regreased.
The replacement pieces I ordered were the "improved" ones with the metal insert. They were a tight fit on the motor but I used a socket and hammer. (lightly). Line up the coupling pieces, reattach clips, DONT FORGET THOSE SCREWS HOLDING THE MOTOR CLIPS. Pump goes on next, etc. MAKE SURE ALL WIRING IS RECONNECTED! Cabinet goes back on, large clips holding cabinet to rear of machine go back on. Knob console flipped down and reattached.
Plugged it in and I was good to go! This washer is almost ten years old and this is the second time I have been able to bring it back from the dead, the first time being the agitator "dogs" wearing out. THANKS PARTSELECT!

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

Looked at the repair instructions on your web site and it made the repairs simple and easy.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The ... Read more actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

I had given up on repairing the machine and placed order for a $650 washer. After returning to home from this shoping, I wanted to know possible problems with the current machine and came across a story on your web site attached to the Coupling parts description. It described the repair details. Encouraged I placed order for this $15 part ... Read more s and repaired in an hour, saved the replacement machine cost. Thanks a lot

removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.

Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
... Read more />So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.