10RJ Range - Instructions

First I turned the circuit breaker switch off for the stove unit. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I attached the new element, bolting the wires into place and then screwed the element back into place on the ... Read more back wall of the oven. I flipped the breaker switch back on, and turned on the oven. I was done in roughly 15 minutes. The most difficult part was having to shine a flash light into the oven to replace the part, and negotiating the hard cold kitchen floor.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has ... Read more self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

I first removed the two screws holding the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 2 or 3 inches and then took out the 2 small screws holding the 2 wires in place. I then removed the old element and discarded it and installed the new one in the reverse order that I took out the old one. It was quite easy to do, only took abo ... Read more ut 10 to 15 minutes total time.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on ... Read more the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wi ... Read more re clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires ... Read more back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

When the new element arrived, it was an inch too short between the wall plate and the terminals. The oven is so old, the manufacturer does not make it any longer , so it was an aftermarket part. I had to mount the temperature limit switch between the element rods without the mounting clip or it would have been touching a live terminal. I ... Read more t was a very tight fit and so the clip wasn't really needed anyway. It works fine.

The oven is 70 years old and used several times a week so getting it to come apart wasn't working.
Used a light oil and some thinner to work loose the old seal, which was stuck pretty good, removed it by lightly prying the seal lip wider and pulling it out, mostly piece by piece. The worked in the new one and became of the light ... Read more oil, it went in rather easy. Had to trim an inch or so from each end and wiped down and cleaned up. No more problems....

Simple repair that was complicated by not being able to remove the oven door, leaving a long reach to the element connections in the back of the oven. Other than the accessibility issue, the repair is easy. Remove two scews, pull the element out about 3 inches to access and unscrew the screws holding the wires to the element. Then reve ... Read more rse the process with the new element. But, because of the long reach, there were alot of dropped screws and cussing.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...)

turn off electricity to stove and simply remove the screws from the heating element and put new element back in place .put screws in and turn power back on and test.

First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other sid ... Read more e. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the bo ... Read more x. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. ... Read more I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.