10698 Kenmore - Instructions

After unplugging the fridge, I removed all the phillips head screws from the evaporator fan housing as well as the back cover and the bottom of the freezer compartment (7) in all. After first removing the bottom cover - then the back cover I could access the evaporator fan unit. This was held in place with two hex-head screws that were e ... Read more asily removed with a nut driver. Then after unplugging the Red, White, and Green wires from the fan I removed it and replaced it with the new one. I did have to break off the two ends of the mounting bracket as described in the instruction sheet since it was too wide. Repeating the above steps in reverse, I had the job done and refridgerator up and running as quiet as could be in less than 15 minutes.

I removed the three nuts that hold the old pump, easy. Next step was to replace with the new pump, tricky, because it goes real deep in the machine and my arms barely reach it.
After several attemtps, I finally reached one screw and bolt it immediately. Rest was piece of cake.
What I liked most, is that you don't need to do any ... Read more wiring connections, because it uses a simple plug-in connector that goes in at the same time when you bolt the new pump.
What it surprised me, was that my machine it's over 20 years old, and the new replacement water pump it's the very same design !!!
Last night I fixed it, and today I'm enjoying again fresh ice.
One plus for PartSelect : I inherit this machine and didn't have an Installation & Operation Manual,and PartSelect have it On-Line, so I printed it, and I believe I'm ready another 20 year period of fresh ice!
Thanks a lot PartSelect !!!

This is a stand alone ice maker that uses a standard water valve. When the valve fails (usually stuck open) the water never chills enough to freeze because water is constantly flowing into the hopper. The valve is in the very front. Remove the front panel. Turn of the water supply and disconnect the valve. Replace the valve and turn on th ... Read more e water. Let the machine run through 1 cycle before the new valve will dispense water. Done.

Easy to do.!

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First I Removed the racks. Next 3 hex bolts that secured the ice maker. Undid the ponytail wiring. 3 Phillips screws to remove the metal back. unplugged the Evaporator Fan Motor. Replaced the new one. reassembled.

Basically, I read all of the remarks from other people that had the same problem , I replaced both the timer and thr defrost(bi metal) thermostat as the thermostat had a ohmic value when closed that I was not comfortable with. The unit is now up and running and defrosting as it's supposed to do. I could not get those pushdown clips that ... Read more hold the timer unit , I ended up breaking them off at the plastic post but there was enough of the plastic post showing that a bit of hotmelt glue was able to hold the timer secure.

First I removed the cutter grid assembly by removing two screws. Also disconnect the wire that powers the grid. Once on the bench, simply remove the broken cutter wire. String in the new wire, starting at one end and working back and forth to the other end. Tighten the terminal screw on the first end, and then "strum" the wires, one a ... Read more t a times, pulling the wires taught. Pull the excess wire thru the second terminal, until all wires are taught, with equal tension. Tighten the second terminal screw, and cut off excess wire at both ends. Re-assemble cutter grid into Ice Maker.
Problem solved!

Unplugged the fridge, emptied the freezer, removed the panel screws, removed the fan assembly retaining nuts, slid the spade wire connectors from the tabs, and performed these tasks in reverse to have the fridge up and running like new. I am not an appliance repair person, but I am not intimidated by simple repairs. Your instructions wer ... Read more e easy to follow, and the cry in the kitchen of "we need a new refrigerator" was silenced for less than $50.00. Thanks!

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit ... Read more is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me a ... Read more ccess to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back porti ... Read more on to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.