1069658183 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

We decided to use our crisper drawers to store sodas. Duh..bad plan. The rail that holds the drawers up cracked in half. So we just had the drawers sitting on the bottom of the fridge. So, I got the new rail THE DAY AFTER I ORDER IT! I just recycled the old one, and slid the new one in. Presto. Perfect fit. Actually, better then perfect. There must have been a defect with my old one, because the new one actually SNAPPED into place, instead if just sitting in the frame. So..I am really pleased.

its not that hard to replace. may need help to tilt fridge on one side so you can get to the bottom to remove wheel.Had to undo all four corner screws/bolts to loosen bottom section and slowly pull out base frame which holds the 4 wheels. this frame is also holding the compressor and fan so be careful.replace wheel and slowly put frame back to position and screw back bolts. pull back fridge to upright position. leave unplugged for a day or two to allow gas to come back to normal level as we had tilted it.plug it back and it works.
thanks
Anoop

I ordered the crispers and they came the next day.I took them out of the box and had them installed in about 30 seconds.It doesn't get any easier than that.The lady on the phone was very helpful when I placed the order.The fact that they came the very next day was amazing to me.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

snapped in. The best part was the ease that i identified the part due to your website.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I replaced the bi-metal thermostat. Very easy fix. It took a couple of days and the water stopped collecting at the bottom.I am very pleased with the web site.

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.

Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.