1069605 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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The refridgerator will not run
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Victor from Colton, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After the front panel was removed, disconnected the timer and installed new in reverse order. The provided instructions could be more straight forward, I spent more time reading it than the installation itself.
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Refrigerator was freezing up and not cooling fresh food compartment
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Greg from McLoud, OK
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was easy, I removed the cover on the top front of the fresh food compartment. It housed the defrost timer which was easy to identify and replace. Just removed a screw, unplugged the wires and replaced with the new part. Unfortunately, that wasn't the only problem. I also had to replace the defrost element that the timer sen
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t power to. While I was at it, I replaced the defroster thermostat. The entire repair took under an hour, diagnosing the problem took the most time and effort.
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Outer case of freezer was heating up, not making ice (sometimes) turned up thermostat several times (especially freezer)
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Greensboro, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I got the product very quickly. (thank you) Looked at online instructions that were quite vague. Pulled plug.Removed the holder for the fan motor slid it out to see what I had. Removed the mounting screws (3) and slid the motor an fan blade out. I made a cut between the wires and marked the "top" wire to motor to be sure to spin in right
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direction. Removing fan blade hold down clamp was NOT explained at all but I noted that the shaft on the motor was threaded, so I used pliars and held the shaft white un-screwing clamp. I cleaned the fan blades with degreaser and scraped edges of opening on holder opening. Make sure to use ALL the NEW parts included with this kit when re-installing. They send them for a reason. When slpicing and connecting wires it is a 50/50 shot if you don't mark before cutting. You can connect and try plugging fridge back for moment and make sure it is blowing OUT. Put everything back together and after turning DOWN the thermostats twice, fridge is back to usual. Ice maker is cranking out ice and outside case is cool to the touch.
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
Note: This can be a DIRTY job especially with 4 dogs in house. Fir and grease don't mix well
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noisy fridge, perimeter of door heating up
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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craig from maple grove, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
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Shelf studs broke several years ago and I had a problem locating them. Finally wised up and checked Part Direct and found them, ordered the kit w/ 12 pieces. Then quickly watched the installation video. Took less than 30 minutes to replace two different studs. Wife is very happy.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Karl from BIRDSBORO, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.
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Condenser fan motor froze up
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Mesa, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket
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Condenser fan making noise
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from North Easton, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easi
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er to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.
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Warm refrigerater
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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charles from REDDING, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions from ideoo
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Freezer no longer frost free.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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anthony from NORCROSS, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.
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door hinge broke.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bernard from DONALDSONVLLE, LA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.
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compressor not running
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Lancaster, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
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freezer would not freeze
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from HELENDALE, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic
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k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."
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Freezer was working but fridge was barely cooling. Look further into how to test thermostat.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Bonnie E from MODESTO, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I s
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hould order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.
Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier.
I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.
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The frig was running too long. the frig was warm the freezer cold
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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MARY from S RICHMOND HL, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Check for Video if any, watch 2X. The parts may look different (but not this time) Unplug.Defrost timer-dropped the control panel in the frig. the defrost timer sits right in the middle switch it out.Turn the timer to be set on the on cycle. Wasn't sure if the Bimetal thermostat was bad too so for a little over $20. I changed that too.-
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in the freezer- remove the metal panel and fan cover. its clipped on to the element tubing on the right. cut the wire. Splice the wire to connect the new one then cover with wire nuts. replace cover, plug in. use frig thermometer to verify temperature.
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broken end caps
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from Narragansett, RI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
snapped the new ones on the aluminum bar and inserted into the freezer
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