1069600586 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

We removed the drawers and drawer cover
(after we'd unloaded that part of the refrigerator!), and
took the glass out of the drawer cover. Then we took
the gaskets off the old cover and put them on the new
one (that's what the screwdriver was for).
It was easy because of the very helpful diagram of all
the parts that I had used on the web site to order the
part.
Getting the part was amazingly fast - thank you!

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.

Remove old parts, install old bar to new caps and snap in place. So easy even a caveman can do it!

Disconnect the power, removed the back panel, plastic cover and the relays. Replaced new parts, reattached the back panel and reconnected the power. The hardest part was to remove the plastic cover, it was locked on so tight,I had to use a putty knife to separate the cover from the compressor.

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

unpluged unit, removed 2 panel screws, removed 4 fan screws, disconnected wires, reassembled

unplugged refrig.
removed screws on back panel of freezer compartment

removed fan motor cover

removed fan

broke ends off support bracket in accordance with directions

had to pull more of old ground wire out of back of refrigerator to get it to reach ground clip on new fan

plugged all 3 wires into fan motor

replaced covers

every thing works fine now.

part was delivered quite promptly

refrigerator was over 30 years old and a sears model but mfg by whirlpool

I had already removed the old Ice maker, so it was no longer in.

When the new ice maker arrived, I simply pluged it in, replaced the screws that hold it in place and turned the water back on to the ice maker.
It was that easy.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

Unplugged wire, loosened two screws on top took out lower screw.Lifted the ice maker up and out it came. The wiring that came with the new part was to short so we unplugged ours from the old part and used it:) was really easy and works great now no leaks

I removed 1 bottom screw and 2 upper screws useing a 1/4 inch socket nut driver. then useing a flat edge screwdriver i incerted in slot to remove wiring cluster. to install just reverse process. you maye have to cut u-shape slot for water spout to sit in.