10695554 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit ... Read more from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

first I turned off the water supply then I removed screw that was holding the nozzle and pulled out the tube then I pried out the face plate by prying from the bottom with a thin screw driver then I unpluged the wire harness so I could access the black tube guide that the white tube was housed in before it was cut I pushed the new white ... Read more tube down threw the black tube and out the bottom hinge I replaced the nozzle screw plugged the harness back in replaced the face plate went to the bottom and connected the tube to the other half replaced the bottom molding and turned on the water

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

I took off the front cover with the controls. Pulled out the control knobs, unbolted the assembly (which was identical to my replacement part) and proceded to follow the old thermostat tube to the back of the fridge. The tube should be carefully removed, not pulled on, there's a couple of screws holding it in towards the back. I installe ... Read more d the new part in reverse of how I took out the original part. I'm very happy with how the fridge has come back to life! It was much cheaper to fix it than to replace.

I turned off the water supply and disconnected the power. Then I removed the back cover plate and the two water lines. Fortunately the water lines are a different size so it is not confusing which line goes on each outlet. Then I loosened the two screws that fasten the valve assembly. It requires a nut driver with a flexible drive or ... Read more a 1/4" socket set with a "U" joint. We were then able to disconnect the third water line on the back side of the valve assembly. I then reversed the sequence to install the new valve. The only difficulty is getting the screws started on the valve assembly.
The trouble shooting guide in the Kitchen-aid user manual is totally inadequate. I bought and replaced the whole icemaker unit when all I needed was the valve.

Very easy. Take panel off and replace motor.. All wires matched fine. Easiest applance repair I've done..

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiv ... Read more er boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

first bought new ice maker installed it-didn`t fix the problem. next bought fill tube kit and dual outlet vale -installed those ice maker works GREAT no leaks -no ice froze together in bend. thanks for the help GUYS.

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from ... Read more the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/h ... Read more eater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushi ... Read more ng from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.

Started the replacement of the existing dual outlet valve by removing cardboard covering the lower back of the refrigerator exposing the outlet valve. Closed the water supply valve at the wall. Removed the hose bibb water supply connection on the outlet valve by hand as it is only hand-tight. I used a small plastic container to catch the ... Read more minimal amount of water left in the copper line. I removed the electrical connection on each solenoid valve (one for the in-door water supply and one for the icemaker supply). I removed the plastic supply lines from the outlet valve. I removed the screws on the bracket attaching the dual outlet valve to the refrigerator vertical rail. I reconnected the electrical connectors to the valve. I reattached the plastic supply lines to the valve, but did not tighten them fully at this point. I secured the bracket on the new valve to the existing screwholes on the refrigerator rail. The new outlet valve does not have a hose bibb connector, it has a compression fitting for the supply. I reused the existing copper supply line from the wall angle-stop valve to reconnect to the new outlet valve. (It would have been best to have cut the copper line and used a new furrel on the copper line). Note that the supply line now comes into the outlet valve from the top, not the rear as on the old valve, so now the dual outlet valve sticks out beyond the frame of the refrigerator. I tightened the nuts on the plastic supply lines on the valve. I had to cut the cardboard cover around the new outlet valve. Resecured the cardboard cover to the back of the frig. Checked for leaks, turned the icemaker on by lowering the shutoff arm, and after a few moments, the outlet valve opened, water flowed into the icemaker, and all is well.