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1069545751 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1069545751
16 - 30 of 1002

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Outlet valve housing was cracked and leaking water
65 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from North Attleboro, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed panel in back of fridge. Disconnected water line. Removed outlet valve housing and disconnected wiring. New part is a retro-fit and was modifiable to fit into same space as old part. Reconnected wiring and water line. Turned water back on to test. Checked water dispenser in front door panel. All good. Replaced panel and whe eled back into place.
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Ice maker not initiating harvest cycle (not making ice)
66 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Elgin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.
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Freezer Iced up, dripping water into refrigerator below
63 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct ter minal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.
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Ice Maker would not eject the Ice either by cube or crushed
69 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from College Station, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
removed the Ice Tray, removed the cover that the motor is attached to, The biggest problem I had was getting the coupler off the drive shaft. It would not tightyen up and would not turn auger. I had to remove the unit and take a hack saw to cut the coupler off
The other problem I could not get the wireing harness unpluged from the refigrator, and had to remove each individual wire from its contact. I had to remove the whole motor unit inorder to get the old coupler off.
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Broken light switch
81 of 133 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from Hays, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
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Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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Refrigerator too warm, freezer coil iced up
52 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Lynn, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug the refrigerator first,then Remove shelves and back inside cover from the freezer. Cut old bi-metal thermostat off and installed a new one. This fixed the problem. Ordered a new timer also which I didn,t need but installed it any way. On the fridge side ,top front, removed the knobs and cover, R&R timer, ins talled cover and knobs. Pay close attention to the instructions on where to put the black wire on the new timer. My refrigerator works great now. This was easy to repair if you are handy with electrical and mechanical repairs, if not get some help.
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Cooling would shut down and not restart until refrigterator was turn off and back on.
44 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Oceanside, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the cover plate over the cover over the thermostat, by snapping it out. Then I removed the four screws holding the cover over the thermostat in place. Next I removed the screw, which held the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then removed that cover and the unit, which exchanges air, flow between freezer and refrigerator . I then removed the two screws, which held the thermostat in place. I then removed the thermostat with the sensor and the white tube, which covered it. Then I removed the white tube from the sensor.

To install the new thermostat I first inserted the thermostat sensor into the white tub. I lubricated the sensor with a very small dab of Vaseline. Then I placed the sensor unit in the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. I next reinstalled the unit, which exchanges air between refrigerator and freezer. Then I reinstalled the cover over the thermostat sensor. I then installed the thermostat with the two screws, which held it in place. Then I reinstalled the cover the thermostat with the four screws, which held it in place. Last I snapped the cover plate in place.
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Excessive noise was coming from the freezer section of my side be side refrigerator
43 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Cleaning out the freezer took the longest time. Once the freezer was clean I turned off the freezer which did not deactivate the light in the freezer. This is a tight area to work in and not having to hold a flashlight made the job much easier. I then removed the shelf slider brackets for the 3 lower pullout drawers. The next step was to remove the interior aluminum back panel (6 screws) which covers the evaporator motor and the coil. Before removing the 3 electric wires that are attached to the evaporator motor make sure the power is off to the motor. The removal of the motor was fairly straightforward and I would suggest removing the plastic fan blade first and then the connector wires. It helped knowing in advance that the plastic fan blade would come off with a little prying. Be careful when prying the fan off so that you don’t damage the plastic motor mount bracket. Once you have installed the motor I would suggest turning the freezer back on to make sure that the evaporator motor works before reinstalling the aluminum back panel and slider brackets.
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ice maker did not make ice
49 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DAVID from TINLEY PARK, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting po wer in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.
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Ice maker quit making ice
44 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from Pahrump, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the ice maker which required removing 3 screws and then disconnecting the electrical plug. Once the ice maker was out, I removed the 3 screws that held the motor assembly to the unit.
I removed the motor, replacing it with the new one.
Plugged the power supply cord back in, replaced the unit with the 3 screws and with in a few minutes the unit was receiving water and by the next day I had ICE. This saved me $50. for the service call, then another $25.00 installation fee when the part came in (had to be ordered) plus the markup on the motor (approx. $25.00) So I saved approx. $100. and only took about 30 min.
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water to ice maker not shutting off; overflowing
43 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • g anthony from salt lake city, UT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator .
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.
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shut off arm broke
52 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Va. Beach, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done
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No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker
45 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Davenport, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.
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Timer "clicking", indicating worn gears
38 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Plano, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.
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All Instructions for the 1069545751
16 - 30 of 1002