106950 Kenmore - Instructions
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Ice maker water outlet freezes and prevents flow
20 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alexander from Miami, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Get refrigerator out away from the wall. Disconnect from power. Loosen 3 and remove 3 or 4 screws to uncover fan, compressor and water inlet valve (WIV). By hand remove plastic hoses that feed the water dispenser and ice maker feed. Unscrew 2 screws that hold WIV her you need the Spring U Joint (SUJ) or equivalent. Pull wires and make men
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tal note or picture the way they fit. They retain the memory the way they came out. With adjustable or wrench remove tube that comes from the filter. Remover black rubber protector from WIV. Install the last hose you removed. Tighten by hand and finish with the wrench used to remove it. Don't over tighten. Maybe 3/4 turn or less after hand tight will do. The difficult part is to re-install the screws that hold the WIV in place, again you need the SUJ. The alternative would be to empty the shelves from anything that will spill or break and have someone tilt the refrigerator and access from below. I used the 1st method as I didn't have the extra help. Install the water dispenser hose (by hand), blow compressed air to the ice dispenser hose to clear the ice. There is another plastic hose just above and behind the dispenser which must be removed to clear the ice that is being blown. After the ice is clear re-install the one in the freezer. That one is just pressure held be careful not to break when replacing it. Re-install by hand the ice dispenser hose to the WIV. Replace the cardboard cover that was 1st removed to access the components. Power the refrigerator and you are ready to make fresh ice. My ice maker lever was stuck at 1st. I released pressure from the metal wire lever and wiggled up and down several times to loosen up.
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drawer broke from kids overloading it.
20 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jonathan from sugar hill, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pulled out the old drawer and put in the new.
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Unable to set the cold-control to a sufficiently cold setting.
36 of 75 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leo from Lewisport, KY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now ... Read more .
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now ... Read more .
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Water leaking from under refrigerator.
17 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from DELRAN, NJ
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for le
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ak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
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The Ice Maker Deflector Broke and Needed Replacing
17 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tony from Victorville, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector
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by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.
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Broken Drawers
21 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fiona from Newman, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I replaced the Crisper Pan with no problem. The snack Crisper Drawer doesn't come with the white trim, so you have to take it off the broken drawer and put it on the new one. I think removing the trim & putting it on the new drawer was the most difficult part since it is such a snug fit! Still, it only too a couple of minutes. Now I am wo
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ndering why I waited so long to order new drawers!! Thanks Parts Select!
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Other Parts Used:
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nozzle on water dispenser broke off.
16 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from Roseville, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new h
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ose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.
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freezer intermitently warmed to around 31 degrees
16 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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brett from garland, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my b
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elief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.
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compressor didnt turn on
24 of 41 people
found this instruction helpful.
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gerardo from el monte, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
changed the starter connected to the compressor
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Water began to leak under the refrigerator. Source looked like it was coming from control valve suppling water to ice maker and water dispenser.
21 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jesse from hacienda heights, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.
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paint on bottom of ice maker was flaking into ice
17 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Newburgh, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws
... Read more >6. put on water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws
... Read more >6. put on water
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Refrigerator No Longer Cooling Properly
15 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Elizabeth from DELRAY BEACH, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Approximately:
1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi ... Read more -mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.
This worked! Yahoo.
p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi ... Read more -mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.
This worked! Yahoo.
p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
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It was not coming out of defrost cycle
25 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dale from Flemingsburg, KY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it
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works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.
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Slow to produce ice & tray damage
16 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Leander, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit bas
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ically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.
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Ice maker's ice tray coating coming off, ice bin had foul odor.
22 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Valencia, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I noticed the coating inside the ice maker, the lining on the surface that the water contacts when making ice, was chipping off. I replaced the ice maker with a new unit and now there's no more bits of stuff in my ice. The other problem I had was the ice bin, it had picked up a weird smell over the years and I wanted to replace it. The ne
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w bin seems flimsier, but works fine. It didn't have the top attachment hole for the ice auger mechanism drilled out for some reason, it had a little "bump" in the plastic where it should be, but was never drilled out. Easy enough, I drilled the hole out and attached that top screw without any issue.
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