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106945 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 106945
76 - 90 of 1420

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Refrigerator/Freezer not cooling
21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from Cairo, GA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disconnect power to refrigerator. Removed all food from Freezer. Removed all Shelves and shelf clips. Used phillips screwdriver and removed 6 screws from lower rear panel covering evaporator coil. Removed panel. Pulled plastic fan blade off top of motor shaft. Unclip top front of black motor retainer clip which then allowed the rear clip to unhook. Removed clip. Then removed 3 wires from fan motor, noting proper location for replacement. Slide the fan motor out to the left. Installed new motor. Reinstalled clip, hooking rear side first. Then rehooked the 3 wires. Slide fan blade back on top until secure. Tested everything at this point before reassembling rear panel. Then replace rear panel, replace the 6 screws, replace shelf clips and shelves and replace food. Very easy to do and saved about $150 over a service call to troubleshoot and re-visit to install after getting part
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Refrigerator stop working
23 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SAL from UPLAND, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the relay and over load and exam. Saw that the relay was burnt. Before I order the part I check to see if the compressor was still working by jumping the common start and run terminals.It did. I also checked the start capacitor with a capacitor tester it was good. I than order the part which came the very next day.Installe d the part
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Water was overflowing into ice bin.
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell E from Rome, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First I ascertained that valve was faulty. Ordered replacement and installed without issue. Water now overflowed only during fill and found that filler neck had ice in it as a result of initial leakage. Defrosted with a hair dryer, removed ice plug and it now works as advertised.
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Ice maker would not fill with water
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Springville, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Turn off the water supply.
Remove the two screws with a nut driver.
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Disconnect the water supply lines from the old valve.
Reconnect the water supply lines to the new valve.
(be sure to push the water line into the quick connect securely)
Reconnect the electrical connector .
Re-install the valve with the two screws.
Turn water supply on.
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Over flowing Icemaker
21 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Flower Mound, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Ice Maker would seem like it was the valve was leaking and Ice would build up at the rear of tray.
After listening to it cycle, (drop ice and fill) valve would open up again about 20 minutes later.
Over flowed and iceberg would form at rear.
Replaced icemaker unit and works fine now.
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Unable to set the cold-control to a sufficiently cold setting.
36 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Lewisport, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now .
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Water leaking from under refrigerator.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from DELRAN, NJ
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for le ak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
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Water began to leak under the refrigerator. Source looked like it was coming from control valve suppling water to ice maker and water dispenser.
21 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jesse from hacienda heights, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.
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freezer intermitently warmed to around 31 degrees
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • brett from garland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my b elief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.
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It was not coming out of defrost cycle
25 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dale from Flemingsburg, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.
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paint on bottom of ice maker was flaking into ice
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Newburgh, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws ... Read more >6. put on water
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Refrigerator No Longer Cooling Properly
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elizabeth from DELRAY BEACH, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi -mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
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Slow to produce ice & tray damage
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Leander, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit bas ically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.
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Following a brief power outage, it stopped producing ice. Harvester was at 6:00 with fingers frozen in ice cubes. Would make a batch if I freed the harvester and jumped the t-stat, but would quit again.
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Pryor, OK
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged refrigerator. Used nut driver to remove small bolt retaining wire cover on right side of ice maker. Removed wire cover, used flat head screw driver to depress side-rail clips. Ice maker slid out, unplugged. Timer module cover pops off easily. Three screws removed the timer module. Installation was reverse of removal. Had ice in less than an hour, bin was full by next morning. If you have a screw driver and know what it's for, this job should come easily.
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Ice stripper broken on ice maker
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from New Braunfels, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened th e screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
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All Instructions for the 106945
76 - 90 of 1420