106933 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

In the freezer section I disassembled the paneling and remeoved the old bi-metal by cutting the wires (make sure your cut has enough slack to do splicing). Then, stripped 1/4 inch of wire insulation from the wire and used a wire splice to connect the new bi-metal and after that I crimp the wire slice. After all of that, I reassembled th ... Read more e paneling plug in the refrigerator and presto!! (Unplugging the regfrigerator should be the first step). The paneling is easy to remove, all the tools that are required is 1/4" nut driver.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

My problem was that the freezer was frosting up.
I have a no frost system so I decided to investigate.
I removed the panels inside the freezer compartment.
This took me about 5 minutes. After the ice had melted, I noticed that the clicks-on (bi-metal stat)
has the top push out at about a 45% angle.
After ordering ... Read more a replacement, I pushed the top of the bi-metal down to where it's supposed to be.
Put the freezer back together and plugged it in. I needed the freezer while the part is being shipped.
The part arrived in about 3 days, which was very fast and a surprise to me.
The freezer was still working fine so I put the part in the drawer until I needed it.
That was in April 09 and it is still working. I have the part in case I need it.
I am very happy with the service I received from PartSelect and will recommend them to everyone.
David Daley

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I s ... Read more ent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn of ... Read more f ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

After removing the old seal, I was able to mount the new seal on the inside panel. Then, as I replaced the screws, I learned that prior to tightening I needed to be sure that the flap was as far in as possible (between the inner panel and the door). I read on this website that someone used a hair dryer to make the seal maleable enough to ... Read more ensure contact all around the door. That worked like a charm. I didn't even need to take the door off of the refrigerator.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Our ice maker had been overfilling and causing a big block of ice in the bin for some time, but it finally stopped working completely. In trying to determine the problem, I read the comments on the PartSelect website from other customers and thought I needed either a new valve or a new ice maker. I replaced both because when I took the ... Read more old ice maker out, it had a lot of mineral deposits in it and looked very unappetizing. The videos on how to replace the valve and ice maker were very helpful. Other customers comments on replacing the valve were also great. The only thing I would add is that after getting the parts installed and the water line and electricity reconnected, it takes an hour or so for the ice maker to to fill. I suppose there is a temperature sensor that won't fill it until gets down to a certain point. I am very pleased with the outcome of this project on our 28 year old refrigerator.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no wate ... Read more r was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker ha ... Read more s been working flawlessly since the repair.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit ... Read more from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet ... Read more back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.