1069205580 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Replaced very easy.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I ... Read more then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.

replaced relay switch
when I finally got started to do the repair it took 15 minutes my biggest delay was no instructions were sent with the part and it took time to get some

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Remove top henge, lift door off bottom henge, take off old plastic closer put on new one. Door works great now

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thic ... Read more k. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.

Brought the inside of the door in tbe house were it was warm. Put gasket on keep inside over night. Screwed frame back on but won't close tigbt so used bungecords to pull tight. Plugged in frezzer left over night next morn took off cord and it sealed great.

Like you video

Removed the top hinge cap. Removed the 3 screws with a nutdriver. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and placed it on it's side. Then I removed both closing cams (one screw holding each). Clean the area then replaced each cam. I put some vaseline on the bottom cam and replaced the door. 4-5 minutes not counting removing and repla ... Read more cing the food inside the door shelves. I'm 56 years old and have always done most of my own handywork. I don't remember any job going so smooth and fast! Ever!