1068672 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in ... Read more the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also uns ... Read more crewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

first I unpluged the refrigerator, then removed the nob for the cold control thermostat. then I removed the plastic cover, and removed the lightbulb. this revealed the metal plate that holds the cold control. four screws held this in place.once theplate was loose I unpluged the three wires that plug into the cold control, and removed the ... Read more two srews that held it in place. then I remved the cold control thermostat, replaced it with the new one hooked up the wires, replaced the metal plate and lightbulb,and the plastic cover. plugged the refrigerator back in, and turned it back on works great now. I hope this will help others to make their repairs easier thanks, gary

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Remova ... Read more l of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

My refrigerator is 17 years old. The gasket seal around the door finally needed to be replaced. I ordered the part from Partselect.com. They had the cheapest price, including shipping. The part alone was still expensive, though, (almost $60!) for just being a piece of rubber.

There are little screws all around the inside of t ... Read more he refrigerator door, under which part of the gasket rests. A socket-set was needed to determine which one would fit the screws. The first step is to remove the old gasket. I discovered (the hard way!) that it makes sense to unscrew them a few at a time to remove the old gasket, and screw them back in, until you are ready to install the new one. My refrigerator door was not one "solid" piece. It is two pieces screwed together (with those little screws), and has insulation in the middle of the two pieces. If you unscrew too many at one time, the two pieces of the door will come apart, so don't do that.

When it was time to put the new gasket on, again, it made sense to do a few at a time. I started at the top of the door. Along with the screws, there is a metal rod that holds the gasket in place. Once you unscrew the screws, you place the back flap of the gasket underneath the metal rod. The gasket itself has holes that should line up with the holes for the screws. The rest of the gasket goes on top of the metal rod and screws. Then put the screws back in, using your socket wrench, and begin the next section (ie one side of the door). Work your way around the door, doing one side at a time. The bottom was the most difficult part to get to. Be careful not to run your fingers along the metal rod to push the gasket. I did cut my finger a bit. (Use something other than your finger to do the job.) The whole thing took me a while, but I got it done, while my HUSBAND sat and watched tv.

First I removed the relay and over load and exam. Saw that the relay was burnt. Before I order the part I check to see if the compressor was still working by jumping the common start and run terminals.It did. I also checked the start capacitor with a capacitor tester it was good. I than order the part which came the very next day.Installe ... Read more d the part

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First I Removed the racks. Next 3 hex bolts that secured the ice maker. Undid the ponytail wiring. 3 Phillips screws to remove the metal back. unplugged the Evaporator Fan Motor. Replaced the new one. reassembled.

Unplugged the fridge, emptied the freezer, removed the panel screws, removed the fan assembly retaining nuts, slid the spade wire connectors from the tabs, and performed these tasks in reverse to have the fridge up and running like new. I am not an appliance repair person, but I am not intimidated by simple repairs. Your instructions wer ... Read more e easy to follow, and the cry in the kitchen of "we need a new refrigerator" was silenced for less than $50.00. Thanks!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit ... Read more is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.

I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.