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1068490261 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1068490261
16 - 30 of 263

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refrigerator was intermittently cooling because thermostat contacts burned away.
23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Westlake, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove fo ur screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.
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Cracked Evaporation tray was leaking water on kitchen floor
26 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerrel from REDDING, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.
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Freezer too warm; noticed sides of refrigertor were warm
22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • W from Nellysford, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also uns crewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.
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Fridge side freezing everything.
21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Murfreesboro, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control bo x to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.
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Refrigerator came with house my daughter purchased and needed new seals. Refrigerator is 17 years old.
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barb from North Royalton, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
First, I read your instructions on line about how to replace a refrigerator gasket and freezer gasket. We replaced both. The information was extremely helpful since we had never done this before. We then loosed a few screws at a time starting with the outside door corner and worked our way around, replacing the seal as we took off the old seal. Leaving the old seal on as we worked our way around gave us the clearance we needed to insert the new gasket behind the metal plate which holds the gasket to the door. Your easy to use web site made ordering easy and delivery was unbelievably fast. Thanks.
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The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Hesston, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set, Wrench set
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Remova l of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
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refrigerator would not stay cold
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allan from Allen, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The wife found if we tapped the knob for the cold control the appliance would turn on. Upon further inspection I found what looked to be carbon particles under the part. I found the part easily with partselect.com, ordered it, installed it and its like we have a new appliance.
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Water leaking from under refrigerator.
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from DELRAN, NJ
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for le ak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
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Unable to set the cold-control to a sufficiently cold setting.
36 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Lewisport, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now .
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freezer intermitently warmed to around 31 degrees
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • brett from garland, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my b elief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.
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compressor didnt turn on
24 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gerardo from el monte, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
changed the starter connected to the compressor
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Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Cedarville, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
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My Fan in the Freezer was making a loud noise
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Imperial, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I went on the web to search for parts, did my screening of companies, and chose Partselect.com
They gave me accurate information, very nice, and double checked the part numbers, and the latest replacement part. I received it in a couple of days, followed the directions, and it's working just fine! I saved a lot of money through Parts elect, instead of buying a new refrigerator.
NICE JOB Partselect!!
Thanks,
Michael
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Condenser fan motor seized
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Benjamin from Daytona Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Tot al time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
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Compressor would not kick on automatically
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Brooklyn Center, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the two screws that were readily in view. I then figured out the there was a faceplate which I was able to pry off after removing the temp control knobs. The temp control unit was easily accessible and was held by two screws which I removed with the nut driver. The only difficult part was replacing the plastic tubing which co vered the sending unit.
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All Instructions for the 1068490261
16 - 30 of 263